Choosing the Right Footwear

Here are some great tips on various types of outdoor footwear from MEC Coop and don't forget to use this handy form from AdventureSmart to let others know essential information about your outdoor adventure.

Types of Outdoor Footwear

Specialized outdoor footwear is not just for mountain climbers and backpackers. Whether you're lacing up for a rigorous trail run or an afternoon amble, the right footwear can enhance your comfort and safety.

Unlike roads and sidewalks, even well-maintained trails can be rocky, rooty, and rolling. Your footwear needs to provide support against ankle-twisting irregularities, protect against the foot-bruising impact of trail debris, and perhaps shed mud, rain, or snow.

Best Foot Forward

Trail Running

Built for moving fast on uneven terrain, these shoes cushion impact and provide good traction on rough and rooty trails.

Light Trail

Used for light and fast days, non-technical approaches, or for multi-sport days when you might be getting into a bit of everything. The soles and bumpers are durable lugged rubber similar to those on day hiking boots, but they are lighter and less supportive than full-on boots. Uppers are mostly fabrics and meshes, with synthetic or split leather reinforcements. Some have motion control features similar to trail runners, but their lack of heel impact protection and greater weight makes them more suited to brisk hiking than continuous running.

Climbing Approach

Designed for scrambles, technical approaches and descents, and even a few easy pitches. Sticky rubber soles and shallow lugs are designed to give you purchase on rock. The soles are often rubber compounds, sticky at the toes and more durable and shock-absorbing at the heels. The midsoles are designed with shorter shanks and edging platforms to aid sensitivity when making semi-technical moves. Narrow toeboxes and fine-tunable lacing let you adjust the fit when going from horizontal to vertical.

Dayhikers

Dayhikers may be mid-cut (like conventional backpacking boots) for a bit more support, or low-cut for comfort. The support they provide varies with the thickness and types of materials, and whether or not they have shanks. Some fast packers or go-light backpackers use dayhikers for multi-day trips. Lightening your feet by a pound is generally considered to be equivalent to lightening your pack by five pounds. But your pack must be light (roughly 35 pounds or less, depending on ankle strength) and the trails must be smooth.

Backpacking

Boots that will take you through multi-day hikes or over long distances of self-supported hiking on and off trails. Some can even be used for light mountaineering. As a result, they are heavier, and will take longer to break in than dayhikers. The heavier soles offer good traction in deep mud and snow. And a sturdier boot will also stabilize your foot and limit flexing and rotating, which prevents tired foot muscles and even blisters. This is particularly important when you are walking over uneven ground with a heavy pack. Uppers are usually full-grain leather, stitched together from several pieces. Boots made of a single piece have fewer seams, and tend to be more durable and water-resistant.

Mountaineering

Designed for alpine climbing, glaciers, or aggressive backcountry travel. These boots are stiff and very durable. Mountaineering boots are designed for use with crampons.

Single boots are made mostly from heavy full-grain leather. They can be used for hiking and approaches, but aren't just heavier versions of backpacking boots. Their soles are very stiff to minimize flexing when supporting the full weight of a climber and pack on crampons. Some specialty single boots are designed to be more form-fitting. This makes them less comfortable for approach hikes and colder than double boots, but delivers maximum precision for climbing.

Double boots feature outer shells of stiff, durable injected compounds and removable insulated liners. The nylon shells are usually hinged to allow heel-to-toe ankle flex, while preventing side-to-side twisting. These boots are warm, and good for cold-weather mountaineering or waterfall ice.

Here are some tips on how to choose the right footwear from Bethesda Troop 233

How to Choose the Right Footwear

Choosing the right footwear may be the most important decision you make as a beginning backpacker. The shoes or boots you choose must be comfortable, durable and protective, mile after mile.

Step #1: Consider the Kinds of Trips You Have Planned

Outdoor footwear can be divided into 3 basic categories. Begin your search for the right boots or shoes by focusing on the category that best matches your backpacking plans.

  • Lightweight hiking - These boots (and trail shoes) are designed for day hiking and very short overnight trips only. They stress comfort, cushioning and breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than the options below.
  • Midweight hiking/backpacking - These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with light to moderate backpacking loads. They are more durable and supportive than lightweight hiking boots, but they are still intended primarily for short to moderate trips over easy to moderate terrain.
  • Extended backpacking/mountaineering - These boots are designed for on- and off-trail hiking with moderate to heavy backpacking loads. They are designed with multi-day trips in mind. Durable and supportive, they provide a high degree of ankle and foot protection. Some of these models are designed specifically for rough terrain with heavy backpacking loads. They offer the very best in durability, support and protection. Some are stiff enough to accept crampons for snow/ice travel.

Step #2: Consider the Materials

The materials used in a given boot or trail shoe will affect its weight, breathability, durability and water-resistance. Since boots made of different fabrics can be very similar in performance, however, personal preference is often the key when choosing between them.

  • Nylon mesh and split grain leather - Nylon and split-grain leather boots are lightweight and breathable, which makes them perfect for warm- to moderate-weather use and short to moderate backpacking trips. They tend to be softer on your feet, they take less time to break in, and they are almost always lighter than full-grain leather boots. They also cost less. Unfortunately, nylon/split grain boots tend to be less water-resistant than full-grain leather boots (although styles that feature waterproof liners can be just as water-tight, if not more so).
  • Full-grain leather - Full-grain leather is extremely water-resistant, durable and supportive (more so than split-grain leather or nylon). It's used primarily in backpacking boots designed for extended trips, heavy loads and hard terrain. Not as lightweight or breathable as nylon/split grain combinations, but it typically lasts far longer. Full-grain leather usually requires a break-in period.
  • Waterproof barriers - Lightweight, waterproof barriers (like Gore-Tex¨) are built into many hiking boots to enhance their water resistance. These barriers are available in a variety of boot styles, from lightweight hikers to extended hiking/backpacking models. Waterproof performance depends upon the type of barrier used, the materials protecting it and how well the boots/shoes are taken care of. If cared for correctly, these waterproof barriers often last longer than the boots themselves.

NOTE: Be careful when shopping for backpacking boots to differentiate between the following:

  • Waterproof leather -- This is leather that's been treated to be waterproof. It's great stuff to have, but remember -- leaks may still occur (depending on how well the boot pieces are put together).
  • Waterproof (or water-tight) construction -- This refers to construction techniques designed to keep leaks out (like seam-sealing, special stitches and precise designs). Water-tight construction is typically combined with waterproofed materials.
  • Waterproof liners -- These are the special waterproof barriers described above that are built right into the boot to protect you from whatever leaks make it through the boot materials. These liners typically do a great job of keeping you dry. But remember, Gore-Tex (and the others) don't last forever.

TIP: The waterproofness (or water-resistance) of your hiking boots depends significantly on how well you treat them. Be sure to follow all care instructions that come with your boots so that they can perform well and last a long time.

Step #3: Consider the Way the Boots are Constructed

Upper construction

The more seams a boot or shoe has, the higher the risk for leaks and/or blow-outs. Leaking occurs when water seeps through the needle-holes or spaces between the boot panels. Blow-outs occur when general wear, repeated flexing or a snag causes a stitch to break and 2 panels to separate. In general, the less seams an upper has, the more water-resistant and more durable it will be.

The connection between the upper and the sole

Hiking boot soles are either stitched or cemented to the rest of the boot.

  • Stitching - Durable, reliable, can be undone to replace the sole once it has worn down. Different techniques (Littleway, Norwegian) result in different strengths and stiffnesses.
  • Cementing - Faster and less expensive than stitching, resulting in lower boot prices. It hasn't always been reliable, but most modern methods produce durable, lost-lasting bonds (depending upon the process and specific glue used). Most cemented boots can now be resoled just like traditional stitch-down models.

Step #4: Test for Fit

Once you've narrowed down your options to a handful of boots or shoes, the best way to decide between them is to try them on. Don't rely solely on your "regular" shoe size when searching for the best fitting boots or shoes. One manufacturer's "9" may vary widely from another's (see below).

Fitting tips:

  • Begin with a foot measurement - Have an experienced REI salesperson measure both of your feet using a Brannock device. Use these measurements as your starting point for trying on boots. If one foot is larger than the other (which is quite common), fit your larger foot first. You may need to use extra socks or an insert to take up extra space in the other boot.
  • Pick the right socks - Wear the type of socks and sock liners that you'll be using out on the trail whenever you try on boots.
  • Check the initial fit - Lace up the boots and stand up. They should feel snug around the ball and instep of your foot, but loose enough that flexing your foot forward is not uncomfortable. Your heel should be held firmly in place. If your foot feels like it's "floating" inside the boot, try a half size down. If your foot feels cramped or your toes make contact with the front or sides of the toe box, try the next bigger size.
  • Take a walk - Take a walk and see how comfortable the boots/shoes are. Check for any looseness, foot movement and/or heel lift. Good-fitting boots will hold your feet firmly in place without binding or pinching them. New boots may feels a little stiff at first, but they should still be comfortable.

After a quick walk across a flat surface, step onto an incline facing downhill (if one is available) to check for foot slippage. Your feet should not slide forward easily, nor should you be able to move your heel from side to side. If either of these is possible, try a smaller (or lower volume) boot. If your toes make contact with the front of the boot without much forward movement, try a larger size or a different boot.

  • Investigate your options - Try on a number of boot models before you decide on a single pair, even if the first pair feels good. Every boot model is built around a different "last" (standard foot shape), so each one will grab you a little differently.

Boot Care Basics

Keep your boots and trail shoes clean between uses by brushing off dirt and mud (both can ruin leather over time). Most fabric boots/shoes can be washed on the outside with mild soap and water (not detergent).

If your boots get drenched, stuff them loosely with newspaper and dry them in a warm place. Never rush the drying process by placing them near a fire, heater or other heat source.

Boots, especially leather ones, should be conditioned from time to time to maintain your investment. This is true whether you hike in dry, hot conditions or wet, temperate ones.

Links to Footwear Information Sites

Things to Think About when purchasing outdoor shoes from eZine Articles.

Information on Climbing Shooes from Climber's Primer.

Information on Hiking Boots from eSsortment.

Information on Running Shoes from Merit Care.

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