Tent Pole Repair

Boot Repair: Restoring Waterproofness

Wet feet are not only miserable but can lead to other foot problems such as blisters. There are a few things you can do to repair your boots and you can even do it in the field with just a few items.

Check to see if the leather looks worn or the rands or sole edges are separating slightly from the boot. If the rands or toe caps are loose you will need to repair them before you waterproof your boots.

Rand Separation

The top edge of a toe bumper is called the rand. On occasion, the rand will separate from the leather.

What you need:

• A urethane glue, such as Freesole.

1. Start with clean, dry boots, and work in an area that is well-ventilated.
2. Apply a urethane glue, like Freesole, to the rands and edges of the boot soles if necessary.
3. Use weight such as a full water bottle or even rubber bands to hold the rand or edges tightly together.
4. Let the glue dry for 24 hours before wearing your boots, or waterproofing them.

Heel Separation

If the heel separates from the leather upper, remove any loose dirt and debris and then clean the area with rubbing alcohol and a stiff brush. Apply Freesole to the sole evenly. Tape, clamp or weight the sole firmly in place and let the Freesole dry overnight.

Making Toe Caps

You can even make a toe cap on your boots using Freesole.

1. Start with clean, dry boots. Apply tape tightly across the toe to create straight edge. Lightly sand the toe area with 120 grit sandpaper then buff aggressively with a rag dipped in rubbing alcohol. Next, allow the boot to dry and buff a second time with rubbing alcohol. This will ensure clean leather.
2. Paint the surface of the toe with Freesole. Be sure to cover all areas between the sole and the tape. Freesole will smooth out by itself.
3. Wait between 30-45 minutes, then peel off tape. Do not leave the tape on longer! Allow your new toe cap to cure completely overnight.

Waterproofing

After the factory-applied water repellency breaks down, a waterproofing treatment should be applied regularly.

• An aftermarket waterproofing treatment, like Nikwax.

1. Start with dry, clean boots.
2. Rub the aftermarket treatment deeply into the leather.
3. Allow the treatment to dry for 24 hours before wearing your boots.

Rock Shoe Repair and Resoling

There are two layers of rubber on your climbing shoe, the rand and the sole. The rand is the layer above the sole. Rands wrap around the shoe and fold underneath to give the sole something to attach to. If you do a lot of climbing, you can wear down the sticky rubber sole on your climbing shoes several times in a season. If the rubber sole is worn out, but the shoes are still in good condition, a reputable cobbler who specializes in rock shoes can resole them. Look for someone that stocks rubber from a variety of different manufacturers and has an long history of repairing rock climbing shoes. It's always cheaper to have the soles repaired sooner than later so look at the sole closely around the big toe. If the tiny toe area is more than 75% thinner than the rest of the sole it would be a good time to have your shoes repaired. If you wait until you have worn through the sole you will be climbing on the rand rubber which will wear through and require a new rand as well as a sole.

There are generally three kinds of resole or repair:

Half-Sole Resole This type of repair only replaces the front sole of the shoe from the toe to the instep. This is the least expensive and the most common type of resole. This is where most shoes wear out.

Full-Sole Resole This type of repair replaces the entire sole of the shoe back to the heel. This is seldom called for if you inspect your shoes on a regular basis.

Rand Repair This repair replaces the thin rubber band at the forefoot. Look closely and push your thumb around the toe area. If the rand is weak you will feel a soft spot. It is better to have the rand replaced on both shoes than to blow through an old rand and halfway through the new soles. Replacing the rand can be expensive so it's best to replace the soles of your shoes regularly as a preventative measure. This is especially true for shoes that fit very tightly because the rand may bulge over the sole, making it particularly vulnerable.

You will need rand repair if the seam where the rand and sole meet is beginning to split, if there's a soft spot or a hole in the rand, or the midsole is exposed. The sole has to be removed to properly repair the rand so if your shoes need new rands they will need new soles as well.

All About Rubber

You know the subtle differences between stickiness and hardness. Most shoes use the 1/8" (or 3-4mm) thickness. Stiffer shoes and general purpose or beginner shoes will take 1/4" (or 5-6mm). Thicker rubber on a good shoe will lose both sensitivity and performance.

Resoling and repairing rockshoes is best handled by the experts. It is possible to keep applying a filler or sealer material such as shoe-goo or aqua seal to temporarily repair the rand until the sole needs replaced but don't try to replace the rand or the soles yourself.

Canister Stove Function and Repair

Canister stoves tanks are pressurized containers similar to the propane tank on your grill. They usually contain some mixture of propane, N-butane or iso-butane as a liquified gas. Since the fuel tanks are under pressure, the fuel is vaporized into a gas as they leave the tank. Think of your gas grill and you have the idea.

The standard valve found on most fuel tanks is a Lindal valve. Because the valves are industry standard and all manufactureres are supposed to adhere to a canister specification called EN-17, all stoves should be interchangable with all fuel tanks. Notice, we said should. In theory they will work. The real world may be different. We make it a practice to only use the fuel tanks designed for our stove. A loose fitting could cause a leak and be a possible fire hazard.

Not to get over technical but all fuels are jetted for C3 and C4 hydrocarbons so clogging should never be an issue. The high pressure in the canister can reach 75 p.s.i., more than enough pressure to keep the jets clear and prevent clogging. What will clog your stove is dirt. Specifically, dirt around the connectors. Keep the connectors of the stove and fuel tank clean and you should not have any clogging problems. Make it a habit to blow out the fittings just prior to connecting. You would also be well advise to retain the plastic tank cover if your tank has one. That will help keep dirt out of the tank fittings.

Another way your stove might clog is due to food particles because of a boil over. The use of a stiff brush or toothbrush to dislodge the food particles is a good way to clean it. A cheap and home made tool is a short section of braided electrical wire like that used for automotive or low voltage. Strip about 1/4 inch from the end of the wire and flare the braided conductor. You can then use it to clean the jets or ports on your stove.

If you will take a small piece of braided wire, a 2 inch piece of 24 gauge snare wire and a 2 inch piece of stiff steel wire (or similar type wire) and attached them to the outside of the stove container you will always have the tools you need should your ports or jets get clogged. You can use duct tape to hold them in place.

Canister fuel tanks are designed to keep the output constant as the pressure inside the canister decreases. Although lower temperatures will cause the canister stove to lose efficiency because the lower the temperature the less readily the liquid fuel inside the tank will convert to a gas. Warming the tank will help. You can accomplish that by carrying the tank inside your jacket or bag or wrapping your hands around the container.

Operating Tips

• Test any new stove while you are still at home to make certain you know how to operate it and that it functions correctly. Don't wait until you are in the wilderness to find out it doesn't work!
• Low pressure can stop your stove from working properly. Warm the canister before use.
• When cooking, insulate the fuel tank from snow or other cold surfaces with a small piece of foam, or set it in a pan of water.
• Never place a wind screen around your canister stove. A wind screen will increase the amount of heat generated against the tank and possibly cause it to explode!
• When you get home, mark partially used canisters with the number of hours burned. You can also weigh the canister on a postal scale to determine the amount of fuel remaining.

Liquid-Fuel Stove Operation, Maintenance, and Repair

Liquid fuel stoves burn either white gas or multi-fuels (gasoline, naptha [white gas], kerosene, fuel oil, stove oil, jet fuel, diesel, or bio-diesel to name the more common ones). The advantage to a multi-fuel stove is fuel is available just about anywhere in the world. The disadvantage is they are more complex and require more maintenance because liquid fuel does not burn as cleanly.

Common Problems and Preventative Maintenance

Carbon Deposits

Since the fuel does not burn as cleanly as in a canister stove, one of the more common problems encountered is carbon deposits or foreign debris blocking the flow of fuel to the jet. It will help if you blow the blue flame out instead of letting it flicker out. The flickering produces soot which forms carbon deposits. Some stoves have Shaker Jets, which is a weighted pin inside the jet that pushes away any debris or soot to reduce maintenance. For stoves equipped with Shaker Jets, just give it a good shake so the needle can do its work. Over time, however, all liquid fuel stoves will need full cleaning to restore optimum performance. If the stove begins to burn with less power than normal something has probably clogged the nozzle, filter or fuel ways. Clean it carefully with methylated alcohol/spirits.

Old Fuel

It's always a good idea to burn those fuels recommended in your stove's manual. Some fuels are just naturally dirtier than others and most fuels leave behind some fuel additives that can clog your stove. Regardless of the type of fuel your manual recommends make certain it isn't old fuel. Some older fuels (like gasoline) can break down over time and result in a weak or surging flame, or even block your stove. So try to replace fuel when it's over a year old. (Always dispose of old fuel in an environmentally safe manner or your local recycling center. One cap full of gas can pollute 1000 gallons of water!) Always use a filter funnel with a fiber disc to refuel your stove. The funnel will remove waxy deposits from the fuel.

Pump Problems

Heat and fuel can play havoc on O-rings and packings. They need lubricants to work properly and the heat can often dry them out. Always make a visual inspection for any that are cracked or dry. Follow your owner's manual regarding lubrication but you can usually use mineral oil or car engine oil. If you are out in the wildernesss you could even get by with lip balm or vasoline. Work the lubricant into the washer until it seals properly in the pump shaft. Of course, a stove maintenance kit is a must.

Symptoms of a dry O-ring or packing will include a pump that becomes very easy to pump or fails to build pressure.

Leaks

If your stove is leaking fuel anywhere, never attempt to light it! Leaks may indicate that O-rings or seals need replacement. The most critical O-ring in most stove pumps is the one that seals the joint between the fuel line and the pump. Once again, a maintenace kit can be a life saver. Replacing O-rings once a year is also a good idea to reduce the risk that one might fail on you in the wild. A failure can occur at any time but it always seems to be when it's the coldest and wettest and at night making repairs even more difficult and miserable.

Operation

• It's always a good idea to leave your stove attached to the pump and the fuel bottle. That will minimize the chance that debris will find its way into your fuel line.
• As we suggested with the canister stove, always test a new stove at home to make sure that you know how to operate it and that you have all the necessary parts to make it function.
• Use only the fuels your stove was made to burn. Using other fuel can be very dangerous and may melt or clog your stove.
• Liquid fuels must also be vaporized in order for the stove to work and low temperatures can interfere with that process. Insulate the fuel tank from snow or other cold surfaces with a small piece of foam.
• Improper priming can cause dangerous flare-ups. Allow your stove to cool completely before priming and re-lighting, or refuelling.
• If you are canoeing or sea kayaking, or have a large party, a backup stove is a good idea.

Cleaning

Never attempt to clean your stove in the wild. It's almost a given that you will lose parts. A thorough cleaning should be performed under optimum conditions with good visibility and that usually means at home.

Required Equipment

• Wire jet cleaning tool, included in your stove's maintenance kit.
• Jet (hex) wrench stove tool, included in a maintenance kit. A multi-tool may also be used.
• Clean white gas or methylated alcohol/spirits.
• Clean rags.
• A container for parts.

Detailed cleaning procedures and stove diagrams are available on most stove manufacturer's websites or are included in your maintenance kit. Always follow those directions. The following suggestions may have to be adapted for your particular stove.

1. Remove the burner cup or priming pan so you can get to the jet assembly.
2. Remove the jet assembly with a hex wrench, being careful not to lose the Shaker Jet cleaning needle (if your stove has one) contained inside the jet.
3. Clean the jet with the jet wire tool. If you suspect that the jet is heavily clogged, you can try heating it with a lighter and quenching it in cold water to break up heavy deposits. If you suspect it is irrevocably clogged, replace it.
4. Some stoves are equipped with a cleaning wire in the pump end, Remove it using the hole in the hex wrench. If there is a needle valve, remove it by unscrewing the external nut around the valve housing.
5. Flush the empty fuel line with clean fuel to remove dirt and carbon deposits. Use the cleaning wire (if present) to scrub the interior of the fuel line.
6. Re-attach the jet assembly using the hex wrench, then flush the line fuel a second time to dissolve carbon deposits.
7. Wipe the cleaning wire with a fuel-soaked rag and re-insert the cable.
8. Reassemble everything in reverse order of disassembly. If you have trouble re-inserting the fuel line, ensure the round mixer tube and slot have not rotated out of position with respect to the slot in the stove body that the preheater tube fits into. Rotate the mixer tube back into position until the fuel line and jet assembly fit back together.

Headlamp and Flashlight Repair

This is one of those tools that really needs to be checked prior to your trip. New batteries and a quick test can save you from groping around in the dark because your light doesn't work.

Required Equipment:

• A voltmeter
• Fresh batteries.
• An emery board or 120 grit sandpaper.

To troubleshoot a non-functioning light:

• Remove the batteries and inspect them for leaking or swelling. If either problem is detected, properly disgard the batteries. Check the light's terminals for any corrosion that might have occurred from a leaking battery and clean with an emory board or sandpaper as necessary.
• If the batteries appear to be free of damage, replace them with fresh ones and see if the light works. Make sure you use the correct type of battery and that the positive and negative terminals are correctly aligned.
• Inspect the light to ensure water has not penetrated the interior causing corrosion. Clean any corresion using an emery board or sandpaper as necessary.
• If the light still fails to function, check the bulb circuit with the voltmeter. If the bulb is bad, replace it.
• On headlamps, check the path between the battery and the bulb, starting from the contacts at one end, through the wiring, and to the contacts at the other end. Over time the tiny wires inside the sheathing can break causing the circuit to function intermittently.

Sleeping Pad Repair

A hole or tear in your self-inflating sleeping pad can lead to an uncomfortable night trying to sleep. But don't throw that pad away. You can repair it!

To locate a pin hole in your pad while at home use a mixture of dishwashing detergent and water. The idea is air leaking from a pin hole will create bubbles making it easier to locate. If you are in the field, using plain water can help locate the hole but it won't be as easy.

Required Equipment:

• Ink pen, felt tip pen or pencil.
• A mixture of dishwasing soap and water.
• Urethane glue such as Freesole® or Seam Grip®.

This will get messy so if you are at home, do this outside.

1. Open the valve and let your mattress inflate. Slightly over-inflate your pad by blowing a couple of breaths into it and then close the valve.
2. Mix a small amount of dish soap in a bowl of water and spread it over the mattress where you think it might be leaking. If you don't see any obvious bubbles forming on the surface of the pad try folding it in half to increase the pressure.
3. While you are at it, check both sides of the matress to ensure you don't miss a hole. You also want to check the area around the valve to ensure it is not leaking.
4. Circle the leaks with the pen or pencil.
5. Rinse the soapy mixture off the mattress and let it dry. When it is dry, deflate it and close the valve.
6. Spread some of the Freesole® or Seam Grip® over the hole. DO NOT apply glue to the valve. If the valve is leaking see below.
7. Open the valve. As the mattress inflates, it will draw glue into the pinhole, making a nearly permanent seal.
8. Let the glue dry for 24 hours before using the mattress.

If there is a larger tear in the pad, you will need to use a sleeping pad repair kit. The kit contains an adhesive as well as an assortment of different sized patches.

A leaking valve will require a replacement. A valve kit will usually contain a replacement valve and adhesive.

Buckle Repair

Broken buckles on a backpack are little more than an annoyance. There are several ways to make temporary repairs without damaging your backpack. Simple repairs can help get you through your hike until you can either make permanent repairs on your own or send the pack into the manufacturer to have it repaired.

Quick Fix

Required Equipment

• One foot of paracord or carabiner

There is probably nothing more versatile to carry in the wilderness than paracord. Take a small piece of cord, thread it through the loop with the broken buckle then through the loop with the undamaged buckle. Tie a standard shoelace knot so you can easily untie the cord and gain access to your pack.

You can perform the same type of repair with a carabiner by passing it through both buckle loops on the pack.

If you don't have any paracord or a carabiner, then you can borrow a less essential buckle from another strap on your pack. Make certain it is the same size as the broken buckle so it will mate to the undamaged buckle and make certain you select the same type of buckle that is broken. In other words, replace a male with a male and a female with a female.

Required Equipment

• Nail file or pocket knife with saw blade

1. Examine the broken buckle to find the thin plastic bar that the webbing is looped over.
2. Carefully cut a 1-2 mm gap in the center of the same bar on the replacement buckle. NOTE: Quick Attach buckles already have a small gap in the bar, and do not need to be cut.
3. Wiggle the nylon loop through the gap in the bar until the buckle is attached to the webbing.

Sewn Fix

Sewing through thick nylon webbing can be difficult, but it will create a more “permanent” fix. A Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl is designed for heavy duty sewing and repairs and will make the process easier.

Required Equipment:

• Replacement buckle.
• Sewing awl or big needle tough enough to push through leather or heavy nylon webbing.
• At least 30cm of heavy, waxed cotton thread.
• Small pliers.

1. Cut the stitches in the webbing to remove the old buckle.
2. Thread the replacement buckle onto the webbing and fold the webbing over on itself.
3. Thread the needle or awl and tie a knot in one end.
4. Push the needle through both layers of webbing. Use the pliers to pull the needle through if it is difficult.
5. Continue sewing with stitches about 5 mm apart. Pull each stitch tight.
6. Tie off the last stitch and cut the thread.

How to Fix a Flat Tire

A flat tire on a mountain or touring bike can be a real disappointment. Not only does it take away from the activities you enjoy, you are often in a terribly inconvenient place to have to fix it. The repair is pretty simple and straight forward but something that is even easier is preventings a flat in the first place.

There are a number of products on the market designed to prevent flat tires. In no particular order, they are: