Tent Pole Repair

Boot Repair: Restoring Waterproofness

Wet feet are not only miserable but can lead to other foot problems such as blisters. There are a few things you can do to repair your boots and you can even do it in the field with just a few items.

Check to see if the leather looks worn or the rands or sole edges are separating slightly from the boot. If the rands or toe caps are loose you will need to repair them before you waterproof your boots.

Rand Separation

The top edge of a toe bumper is called the rand. On occasion, the rand will separate from the leather.

What you need:

• A urethane glue, such as Freesole.

1. Start with clean, dry boots, and work in an area that is well-ventilated.
2. Apply a urethane glue, like Freesole, to the rands and edges of the boot soles if necessary.
3. Use weight such as a full water bottle or even rubber bands to hold the rand or edges tightly together.
4. Let the glue dry for 24 hours before wearing your boots, or waterproofing them.

Heel Separation

If the heel separates from the leather upper, remove any loose dirt and debris and then clean the area with rubbing alcohol and a stiff brush. Apply Freesole to the sole evenly. Tape, clamp or weight the sole firmly in place and let the Freesole dry overnight.

Making Toe Caps

You can even make a toe cap on your boots using Freesole.

1. Start with clean, dry boots. Apply tape tightly across the toe to create straight edge. Lightly sand the toe area with 120 grit sandpaper then buff aggressively with a rag dipped in rubbing alcohol. Next, allow the boot to dry and buff a second time with rubbing alcohol. This will ensure clean leather.
2. Paint the surface of the toe with Freesole. Be sure to cover all areas between the sole and the tape. Freesole will smooth out by itself.
3. Wait between 30-45 minutes, then peel off tape. Do not leave the tape on longer! Allow your new toe cap to cure completely overnight.

Waterproofing

After the factory-applied water repellency breaks down, a waterproofing treatment should be applied regularly.

• An aftermarket waterproofing treatment, like Nikwax.

1. Start with dry, clean boots.
2. Rub the aftermarket treatment deeply into the leather.
3. Allow the treatment to dry for 24 hours before wearing your boots.

Rock Shoe Repair and Resoling

There are two layers of rubber on your climbing shoe, the rand and the sole. The rand is the layer above the sole. Rands wrap around the shoe and fold underneath to give the sole something to attach to. If you do a lot of climbing, you can wear down the sticky rubber sole on your climbing shoes several times in a season. If the rubber sole is worn out, but the shoes are still in good condition, a reputable cobbler who specializes in rock shoes can resole them. Look for someone that stocks rubber from a variety of different manufacturers and has an long history of repairing rock climbing shoes. It's always cheaper to have the soles repaired sooner than later so look at the sole closely around the big toe. If the tiny toe area is more than 75% thinner than the rest of the sole it would be a good time to have your shoes repaired. If you wait until you have worn through the sole you will be climbing on the rand rubber which will wear through and require a new rand as well as a sole.

There are generally three kinds of resole or repair:

Half-Sole Resole This type of repair only replaces the front sole of the shoe from the toe to the instep. This is the least expensive and the most common type of resole. This is where most shoes wear out.

Full-Sole Resole This type of repair replaces the entire sole of the shoe back to the heel. This is seldom called for if you inspect your shoes on a regular basis.

Rand Repair This repair replaces the thin rubber band at the forefoot. Look closely and push your thumb around the toe area. If the rand is weak you will feel a soft spot. It is better to have the rand replaced on both shoes than to blow through an old rand and halfway through the new soles. Replacing the rand can be expensive so it's best to replace the soles of your shoes regularly as a preventative measure. This is especially true for shoes that fit very tightly because the rand may bulge over the sole, making it particularly vulnerable.

You will need rand repair if the seam where the rand and sole meet is beginning to split, if there's a soft spot or a hole in the rand, or the midsole is exposed. The sole has to be removed to properly repair the rand so if your shoes need new rands they will need new soles as well.

All About Rubber

You know the subtle differences between stickiness and hardness. Most shoes use the 1/8" (or 3-4mm) thickness. Stiffer shoes and general purpose or beginner shoes will take 1/4" (or 5-6mm). Thicker rubber on a good shoe will lose both sensitivity and performance.

Resoling and repairing rockshoes is best handled by the experts. It is possible to keep applying a filler or sealer material such as shoe-goo or aqua seal to temporarily repair the rand until the sole needs replaced but don't try to replace the rand or the soles yourself.

Canister Stove Function and Repair

Canister stoves tanks are pressurized containers similar to the propane tank on your grill. They usually contain some mixture of propane, N-butane or iso-butane as a liquified gas. Since the fuel tanks are under pressure, the fuel is vaporized into a gas as they leave the tank. Think of your gas grill and you have the idea.

The standard valve found on most fuel tanks is a Lindal valve. Because the valves are industry standard and all manufactureres are supposed to adhere to a canister specification called EN-17, all stoves should be interchangable with all fuel tanks. Notice, we said should. In theory they will work. The real world may be different. We make it a practice to only use the fuel tanks designed for our stove. A loose fitting could cause a leak and be a possible fire hazard.

Not to get over technical but all fuels are jetted for C3 and C4 hydrocarbons so clogging should never be an issue. The high pressure in the canister can reach 75 p.s.i., more than enough pressure to keep the jets clear and prevent clogging. What will clog your stove is dirt. Specifically, dirt around the connectors. Keep the connectors of the stove and fuel tank clean and you should not have any clogging problems. Make it a habit to blow out the fittings just prior to connecting. You would also be well advise to retain the plastic tank cover if your tank has one. That will help keep dirt out of the tank fittings.

Another way your stove might clog is due to food particles because of a boil over. The use of a stiff brush or toothbrush to dislodge the food particles is a good way to clean it. A cheap and home made tool is a short section of braided electrical wire like that used for automotive or low voltage. Strip about 1/4 inch from the end of the wire and flare the braided conductor. You can then use it to clean the jets or ports on your stove.

If you will take a small piece of braided wire, a 2 inch piece of 24 gauge snare wire and a 2 inch piece of stiff steel wire (or similar type wire) and attached them to the outside of the stove container you will always have the tools you need should your ports or jets get clogged. You can use duct tape to hold them in place.

Canister fuel tanks are designed to keep the output constant as the pressure inside the canister decreases. Although lower temperatures will cause the canister stove to lose efficiency because the lower the temperature the less readily the liquid fuel inside the tank will convert to a gas. Warming the tank will help. You can accomplish that by carrying the tank inside your jacket or bag or wrapping your hands around the container.

Operating Tips

• Test any new stove while you are still at home to make certain you know how to operate it and that it functions correctly. Don't wait until you are in the wilderness to find out it doesn't work!
• Low pressure can stop your stove from working properly. Warm the canister before use.
• When cooking, insulate the fuel tank from snow or other cold surfaces with a small piece of foam, or set it in a pan of water.
• Never place a wind screen around your canister stove. A wind screen will increase the amount of heat generated against the tank and possibly cause it to explode!
• When you get home, mark partially used canisters with the number of hours burned. You can also weigh the canister on a postal scale to determine the amount of fuel remaining.

Liquid-Fuel Stove Operation, Maintenance, and Repair

Liquid fuel stoves burn either white gas or multi-fuels (gasoline, naptha [white gas], kerosene, fuel oil, stove oil, jet fuel, diesel, or bio-diesel to name the more common ones). The advantage to a multi-fuel stove is fuel is available just about anywhere in the world. The disadvantage is they are more complex and require more maintenance because liquid fuel does not burn as cleanly.

Common Problems and Preventative Maintenance

Carbon Deposits

Since the fuel does not burn as cleanly as in a canister stove, one of the more common problems encountered is carbon deposits or foreign debris blocking the flow of fuel to the jet. It will help if you blow the blue flame out instead of letting it flicker out. The flickering produces soot which forms carbon deposits. Some stoves have Shaker Jets, which is a weighted pin inside the jet that pushes away any debris or soot to reduce maintenance. For stoves equipped with Shaker Jets, just give it a good shake so the needle can do its work. Over time, however, all liquid fuel stoves will need full cleaning to restore optimum performance. If the stove begins to burn with less power than normal something has probably clogged the nozzle, filter or fuel ways. Clean it carefully with methylated alcohol/spirits.

Old Fuel

It's always a good idea to burn those fuels recommended in your stove's manual. Some fuels are just naturally dirtier than others and most fuels leave behind some fuel additives that can clog your stove. Regardless of the type of fuel your manual recommends make certain it isn't old fuel. Some older fuels (like gasoline) can break down over time and result in a weak or surging flame, or even block your stove. So try to replace fuel when it's over a year old. (Always dispose of old fuel in an environmentally safe manner or your local recycling center. One cap full of gas can pollute 1000 gallons of water!) Always use a filter funnel with a fiber disc to refuel your stove. The funnel will remove waxy deposits from the fuel.

Pump Problems

Heat and fuel can play havoc on O-rings and packings. They need lubricants to work properly and the heat can often dry them out. Always make a visual inspection for any that are cracked or dry. Follow your owner's manual regarding lubrication but you can usually use mineral oil or car engine oil. If you are out in the wildernesss you could even get by with lip balm or vasoline. Work the lubricant into the washer until it seals properly in the pump shaft. Of course, a stove maintenance kit is a must.

Symptoms of a dry O-ring or packing will include a pump that becomes very easy to pump or fails to build pressure.

Leaks

If your stove is leaking fuel anywhere, never attempt to light it! Leaks may indicate that O-rings or seals need replacement. The most critical O-ring in most stove pumps is the one that seals the joint between the fuel line and the pump. Once again, a maintenace kit can be a life saver. Replacing O-rings once a year is also a good idea to reduce the risk that one might fail on you in the wild. A failure can occur at any time but it always seems to be when it's the coldest and wettest and at night making repairs even more difficult and miserable.

Operation

• It's always a good idea to leave your stove attached to the pump and the fuel bottle. That will minimize the chance that debris will find its way into your fuel line.
• As we suggested with the canister stove, always test a new stove at home to make sure that you know how to operate it and that you have all the necessary parts to make it function.
• Use only the fuels your stove was made to burn. Using other fuel can be very dangerous and may melt or clog your stove.
• Liquid fuels must also be vaporized in order for the stove to work and low temperatures can interfere with that process. Insulate the fuel tank from snow or other cold surfaces with a small piece of foam.
• Improper priming can cause dangerous flare-ups. Allow your stove to cool completely before priming and re-lighting, or refuelling.
• If you are canoeing or sea kayaking, or have a large party, a backup stove is a good idea.

Cleaning

Never attempt to clean your stove in the wild. It's almost a given that you will lose parts. A thorough cleaning should be performed under optimum conditions with good visibility and that usually means at home.

Required Equipment

• Wire jet cleaning tool, included in your stove's maintenance kit.
• Jet (hex) wrench stove tool, included in a maintenance kit. A multi-tool may also be used.
• Clean white gas or methylated alcohol/spirits.
• Clean rags.
• A container for parts.

Detailed cleaning procedures and stove diagrams are available on most stove manufacturer's websites or are included in your maintenance kit. Always follow those directions. The following suggestions may have to be adapted for your particular stove.

1. Remove the burner cup or priming pan so you can get to the jet assembly.
2. Remove the jet assembly with a hex wrench, being careful not to lose the Shaker Jet cleaning needle (if your stove has one) contained inside the jet.
3. Clean the jet with the jet wire tool. If you suspect that the jet is heavily clogged, you can try heating it with a lighter and quenching it in cold water to break up heavy deposits. If you suspect it is irrevocably clogged, replace it.
4. Some stoves are equipped with a cleaning wire in the pump end, Remove it using the hole in the hex wrench. If there is a needle valve, remove it by unscrewing the external nut around the valve housing.
5. Flush the empty fuel line with clean fuel to remove dirt and carbon deposits. Use the cleaning wire (if present) to scrub the interior of the fuel line.
6. Re-attach the jet assembly using the hex wrench, then flush the line fuel a second time to dissolve carbon deposits.
7. Wipe the cleaning wire with a fuel-soaked rag and re-insert the cable.
8. Reassemble everything in reverse order of disassembly. If you have trouble re-inserting the fuel line, ensure the round mixer tube and slot have not rotated out of position with respect to the slot in the stove body that the preheater tube fits into. Rotate the mixer tube back into position until the fuel line and jet assembly fit back together.

Headlamp and Flashlight Repair

This is one of those tools that really needs to be checked prior to your trip. New batteries and a quick test can save you from groping around in the dark because your light doesn't work.

Required Equipment:

• A voltmeter
• Fresh batteries.
• An emery board or 120 grit sandpaper.

To troubleshoot a non-functioning light:

• Remove the batteries and inspect them for leaking or swelling. If either problem is detected, properly disgard the batteries. Check the light's terminals for any corrosion that might have occurred from a leaking battery and clean with an emory board or sandpaper as necessary.
• If the batteries appear to be free of damage, replace them with fresh ones and see if the light works. Make sure you use the correct type of battery and that the positive and negative terminals are correctly aligned.
• Inspect the light to ensure water has not penetrated the interior causing corrosion. Clean any corresion using an emery board or sandpaper as necessary.
• If the light still fails to function, check the bulb circuit with the voltmeter. If the bulb is bad, replace it.
• On headlamps, check the path between the battery and the bulb, starting from the contacts at one end, through the wiring, and to the contacts at the other end. Over time the tiny wires inside the sheathing can break causing the circuit to function intermittently.

Sleeping Pad Repair

Use soap and water to find pin-hole leaks in your self-inflating sleeping pad. If the mattress is torn, or the valve is leaking, use a repair kit to patch it or replace the valve.

Required Equipment:

• Your leaky mattress.
• Pen.
• Dish soap and water.
• Urethane glue such as Freesole® or Seam Grip®.

To find leaks in your sleeping pad or air mattress, spread a mixture of dish-soap and water over the pad. It is most convenient to do this over the bathtub.

1. Open the valve and let your mattress inflate. Blow a couple of breaths into it to slightly over-inflate and then close the valve.
2. Mix a small amount of dish soap in a bowl of water and spread it over the mattress where you think it might be leaking. Fold the mattress in half or thirds. Watch for bubbles coming out of the leaks.
3. Repeat for the other side of the mattress.
4. Circle the leaks with a pen.
5. Rinse the mattress and let it dry out. When it is dry, deflate it and close the valve.
6. Spread some glue over the hole.
7. Open the valve. As the mattress inflates, it will draw glue into the pinhole, making a long-lasting seal.
8. Let the glue dry for 24 hours before using the mattress.

Buckle Repair

You’re hiking in the backcountry and POP! There goes a crucial buckle on your backpack – it’s time for buckle repair.

Quick Fix

If your buckle busted, and it was sewn directly onto to your pack, try this trick to replace it.

Required Equipment

• Replacement buckle the same size as the original. You can borrow a non-essential buckle from another strap on your pack.
• Nail file, pocket knife (saw blade), or lighter.

1. Examine the broken buckle to find the thin plastic bar that the webbing is looped over.
2. Carefully cut, melt, or snip, a one or two-millimetre gap in the centre of the same bar on the replacement buckle. Quick Attach buckles already have a small gap in the bar, and do not need to be cut.
3. Wiggle the nylon loop through the gap in the bar until the buckle is attached to the webbing.

Sewn Fix

Sewing through thick nylon webbing can be difficult, but it will create a more “permanent” fix. A Speedy Stitcher is designed for heavy duty sewing and repairs and will make the process easier.

Required Equipment:

• Replacement buckle.
• Sewing awl or big needle tough enough to push through leather or heavy nylon webbing.
• At least 30cm of heavy, waxed cotton thread.
• Small pliers.

1. Cut the stitches in the webbing to remove the old buckle.
2. Thread the replacement buckle onto the webbing and fold the webbing over on itself.
3. Thread the needle or awl and tie a knot in one end.
4. Push the needle through both layers of webbing. Use the pliers to pull the needle through if it is difficult.
5. Continue sewing with stitches about 5 millimetres apart. Pull each stitch tight.
6. Tie off the last stitch and cut the thread.

How to Fix a Flat Tire

There's only one thing more frustrating than a flat tire – a recurring flat tire. By following a few simple steps, however, you can avoid the discomfort of being delayed (or stranded) on your next ride.

Read the instructions over before beginning this repair.

Required Equipment

• Your tire, wheel assembly, and punctured inner tube.
• Flat tire repair kit (sand paper, rubber cement glue, and patches).
• Set of tire levers.

Other Useful Equipment

• Pair of tweezers.
• Small metal file.
• Rim tape.
• Adjustable pocket wrench.
• Pen.
• Extra inner tube (proper size and valve type, without any leaks).

A few quick definitions to help you on your way:

• Rim – The circular part of the wheel which attaches the spokes to the wheel centre or hub.
• Rim Edge – The part of the rim which the brake pads rub against when engaged. There are two rim edges which help hold the tire in position.
• Rim Tape – The rim tape protects the tube from mechanical damage by spoke ends, metal burrs and holes in the rim. An appropriate rim tape must completely and securely cover all spoke holes. It must securely fit around your rims and protect your tubes from spoke heads.
• Tire –The outermost rubber part of the wheel which contacts the ground while riding. The inner tube fits inside the tire.
• Tire Bead – The stiff part of the tire which fits inside the rim edge and helps hold the tire in position. There are two beads per tire, one on each side.
• Inner Tube – The part of your wheel that you can inflate using the inner tube valve. The inner tube fits inside the tire.
• Inner Tube Valve – There are two kinds of inner tube valves (Schraeder or Presta); Your rim will only accept one type of valve. Schraeder valves are the same kind found on a car tire (only shorter). Presta valves are longer and thinner, and need to be unscrewed at their tip in order to inflate or deflate. Presta valves are often secured to the rim with a small, circular nut.

Removing the Tire and Inner Tube

1. Disconnect the brakes from the wheel. With most bikes, this is a simple matter of disconnecting the brake cable from the brake arms.
2. Open the valve and deflate the inner tube completely. If you are using an inner tube with a Presta valve, you will need to unscrew the tip of the valve and press it down with your finger in order to deflate the tube.
3. Remove the wheel from the bike frame by undoing the quick-release system. Use a crescent wrench if the wheel is attached by nuts.

Remove the tire from the rim using a set of tire levers (screwdrivers or other sharp tools can cut the tire or the tube).

1. Insert one of the tire levers between the rim edge and the tire bead.
2. Use leverage to flip one side of the tire bead on to the outside of the rim edge.
3. Use the hook at the other end of the tire lever to clip on to a spoke, locking the lever in place.
4. Insert another lever a few inches from the first.
5. Continue flipping the tire bead to the outside of the rim edge until one of the tire beads is completely free.
6. With half the tire off the rim, it should be possible to remove the inner tube. If not, you may need to repeat the above steps and completely remove the tire from the rim. Remember, if you are using an inner tube with a Presta valve, you will need to first unscrew the circular nut at the base of the valve in order to remove the inner tube.

Finding the Leak and Determining the Cause

Try to determine the cause of the flat before you repair it so you can avoid re-puncturing the tube. Sometimes the cause of a flat will be painfully obvious – a nail or similar object protruding from your tire. Other times, the location of the leak will not be visible. In such cases, partially inflate the inner tube, and locate the leak by ear, or hold the partially inflated inner tube under water to look for bubbles. Mark the punctured area with a pen so you can easily locate it again.

Once you've located the leak, inspect the corresponding area of the tire and rim for problems (the tire, inner tube, and rim must all be facing the way they were originally mounted together).

Common causes of repeat punctures:

• Small sharp objects such as glass or metal slivers lodged in the tire. These are easiest to remove with tweezers.
• Grit inside the tire can simply be brushed away.
• Protruding or sharp spoke heads should be filed down and covered with rim tape.
• Holes in the tire through which the inner tube bulges and wears away as you ride. In such cases, you should consider replacing your tire and inner tube. A folded energy wrapper or a tube patch can sometimes be used as a temporary fix to get you home.

Repairing the Inner Tube

1. Find the leak(s) that you marked on the inner tube. If you have several leaks, a giant slash, or you notice that leaks are coming from old patches, it may be time to consider replacing your inner tube completely (remember, old inner tubes make excellent tie-down straps).
2. Repair each leak following the instructions provided with your patch kit.

If you've lost your instructions, consider the following hints:

• The effectiveness of your repair depends, to a large extent, on the quality of your patches and glue. It pays to replace your patches on a regular basis.
• Dry the damaged section of the inner tube thoroughly before starting the repair.
• Use sand paper to roughen the patch area of the inner tube. This improves contact between the patch and tube.
• Apply a generous amount of glue and wait a few minutes for the glue to cure before applying the patch. The glue should be tacky to the touch.
• After it is glued to the inner tube, apply pressure to the patch for several minutes .

Putting It All Back Together

When replacing tires or tubes, have a look at the trueness (the balance) of your wheel, and the alignment of your brake pads.

To check the trueness of your wheel:

• Lift or turn your bike over so that the wheel can spin freely.
• Stand in front of, or over top of the wheel and spin it.
• Use a visual reference point, such as your brake pad, as you watch the wheel spin.
• If either side of the rim wobbles or appears to jump with respect to your reference point, the wheel may be "out of true".

A wheel which is badly out of true increases the likelihood that a misaligned brake pad will miss your rim and end up rubbing the tire sidewall, eventually causing your tire and tube to explode. It also makes it difficult to properly hook the tire bead into your rim, which increases the risks of foreign objects puncturing your tube.

When all the leaks are repaired, begin re-assembling your bike. The easiest way to re-assemble your wheel is to begin by putting one side of your tire bead back on to the wheel.

1. Using the tire levers if needed, work one side of the tire bead over the rim edge.
2. Partially inflate the repaired inner tube just enough to give it shape.
3. Insert the valve stem of the tube into the hole in the rim. If you are using a tube with a Presta valve, replace the circular nut on the base of the valve.
4. Starting from the valve stem, work the inner tube into the tire so it is completely tucked in.
5. Using only your hands, begin working the other side of the tire bead over the rim edge. Make sure not to pinch the tube between the tire and the rim edge.
6. Once the tire is back on the rim, work both sides of the tire bead from side to side to make sure the tube is not caught under the tire bead.
7. Reinflate the tire to the recommended pressure. Note: some mountain bike tires need to be reinflated on the bike, since fully inflated tires won’t fit between the brake pads.
8. Remount the wheel and reconnect the brakes.

Don't forget to replace the bits you used from the repair kit. As a final note, it's a good idea to carry a new tube in your repair kit – this prevents having to repair a tube in the rain.

Field Repair Kit

Carrying a general field repair kit makes you more self-sufficient. This is particularly important on long or remote trips. Think of it as a first aid kit for your gear. Having the minimum number of items will let you limp back to the trailhead. Adding luxury and sport-specific additions may let you continue your trip with style.

Spartan

• duct tape.
• big needle and thick nylon thread (or dental floss).
• big rubber bands.
• swiss army knife.

Basic Additions

• multi-tool.
• alcohol pads for degreasing or cleaning gear for repairs.
• safety pins.
• pole sleeve.

Luxury Additions

• 25 centimetre square of no-see-um-netting for repairing holes in tents, packs, clothing.
• sandpaper for roughing up areas to be glued.
• Inflatable matress repair kit.
• 5 to 6 metres of thin cord.
• 1 metre or more of stovepipe wire or mechanic's wire to fix bindings, rudders, etc.
• super glue.
• epoxy that cures at low temperatures.
• pole segment.
• stove kit.
• ladder and slider buckles, with a slot cut into the support so it can be slid over closed loops.
• 1 metre of accessory webbing.
• ripstop nylon and polyester scraps to repair clothing.
• Freesole.

Sport-Specific Repair Kit Additions

Cycling

• Park tool.
• patch kit.
• lubricant.
• spare tube.
• spoke wrench.

Kayaking

• allan keys, low-profile screwdriver, and socket bits for your boat.
• small gripping wrench.
• wire-cutter.
• spare stainless steel nuts, bolts, and washers for your kayak.
• 2 spare rudder cables, pre-cut for your boat.
• several copper crimpon fittings, and heat-shrink tubes or tape for rudder cable fixes.
• marine-grade epoxy glue for repairing very small holes and sticking parts back together.
• awl for heavier sewing jobs such as sprayskirts.
• Aquaseal® for waterproofing seams and patches on clothing, tents, or drybags.
• small, solid, watertight protector case to keep tools and materials together.

For fibreglass or fibreglass/Kevlar kayaks:

• 30cm square of fibreglass cloth.
• epoxy (polyester or vinylester) resin used for your boat. (Carry two-part resins in two plastic 35mm film canisters – seal the lids with duct tape.)
• small paintbrush with cut-down handle to apply resin to fibreglass cloth and brush grit off a repair after sanding.
• 2 pairs latex gloves to keep epoxy resin off your skin.
• multi-tool saw or half a hacksaw blade to trim and smooth holes prior to patching.
• Aquamend® Wet Surface / Underwater Epoxy Putty to repair smaller holes. or cracks.

For plastic kayaks:

• Quikplastik™ Epoxy Putty Plastic Adhesive (does not adhere to wet surfaces or polyolefin plastics).

Skiing

• pocket multi-bit tool with 1/4" hex shank, 5/32" drill bit for re-drilling skis.
• appropriate screwdriver bits for your bindings. (#3 posidrive, T-20 torque bit, etc.)
• self-tapping binding screws
• spare binding parts.
• golf tees (scrape the paint off) as wooden dowels for plugging screw holes.
• hose clamps for ski pole repair or ski tip repair.

Tent, Clothing or Pack Repair

Almost too good to be true – a no-stitching, durable repair for tears or holes in the fabric of your tent, pack, pannier, or clothes.

Equipment needed:

• Packing tape.
• Urethane glue such as Freesole or SeamGrip®.
• A piece of tent netting fabric that covers the rip and extends 5mm past each edge.

This repair is almost invisible from the outside when used for tears, but a transparent spot will remain when used for larger holes.

1. On the ouside surface of the fabric, cover the hole or tear with clear packing tape. Hold the edges of the tear together while placing the tape. Do not use duct tape – it will leave a sticky residue when you remove it.
2. On the inside surface, spread a thin layer of glue over the tear, extending about 5mm past the edges. If the fabric is lined, open a seam near the tear to access the inside of the shell fabric.
3. Place the piece of netting over the wet glue to add strength to the repair.
4. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.
5. Remove the tape from the face fabric. If there are any loose fibers or threads remaining, you can carefully flash burn them away with a lighter.
6. Dust the dried glue with talcum powder or cornstarch to prevent the repair from bonding to itself when folded. Re-stitch the seam if you're working on a lined garment.

Repairing Torn Waterproof-Breathable Clothing

If you've been unlucky enough to have snagged your waterproof-breathable on a branch, cut it with a ski edge, or poked a hole with your crampon, you could just slap a piece of duct tape on it, or you could use this sturdier, more durable repair.

Equipment:

• Your torn garment, clean and dry.
• A small swatch of waterproof fabric. The patch will not be visible, so colour is not important.
• A urethane-based adhesive like Freesole™ or Seam Seal™.
• If the tear is over two centimetres long, you'll need a thin needle, tough enough to push through several layers of fabric, and some thread.

Tears Less than Two Centimeters

1. Turn the garment inside out and locate the damaged area.
2. Cut a small patch from the fabric swatch.
3. Spread a very thin layer of adhesive on the patch and inside the garment around the tear.
4. Lay the patch smoothly over the tear.
5. Turn the garment over, locate the tear and smooth down the torn edges.
6. Let the glue dry for at least 24 hours.

Tears More than Two Centimeters

1. Turn the garment inside out and locate the damaged area.
2. Thread the needle and tie a knot at one end.
3. Starting from the inside and at one end of the tear, carefully stich together the edges of the tear. Do not pull the thread so tightly that it puckers or wrinkles the garment. Pull just tight enough to "close the wound" by drawing the edges of the damaged area together.
4. Stich the tear from one end to the other, knot and cut the thread.
5. Cut a patch from the fabric swatch.
6. Spread a very thin layer of adhesive on the patch and inside the garment around the tear.
7. Pull the material around the tear tight, fold the freshly stitched area against the inside of the garment, and carefully place the patch over the hole.
8. Ensure the patch is flat and smooth.
9. Turn the garment over, locate the tear and smooth down any bumps or bulges in the glue.
10. Let the glue dry for at least 24 hours.

Zipper Repair

Over time, a zipper's sliders can become loose. If you pull up the slider and the teeth don't stay closed behind it, the slider should be tightened or replaced. If the teeth themselves are damaged, you may need to replace the entire zipper.

Required Equipment

• Hinged or adjustable (not needle-nose) pliers

You may also need:

• Zipper stops, found at fabric stores
• Scissors
• Replacement slider
• Needle and thread

Tighten Sliders

1. Move the slider to the bottom of the zipper.
2. Put the pliers around the slider, so that the pliers are gripping it from the inside and outside of the garment (you may need to undo some stitching). Needle-nose pliers will place uneven pressure on the slider, and can wreck it.
3. Gently squeeze the left side of the slider, then squeeze the right side. Test the zip. You may have to re-squeeze the slider until the zipper functions, but avoid squeezing so hard that you jam or break the zipper.
4. If the zipper does not separate at the bottom (ie, the fly on a pair of pants), a few teeth at the bottom may not properly engage. To fix this, install new bottom stops, or sew the teeth closed.

Replace Sliders

For zippers that do not separate at the bottom you may need to open the seam and remove the bottom stops, or cut away the bottom half inch of the zipper. For zippers that separate at the bottom, such as a jacket, remove one or both of the top stops.

1. Zip the slider off the end of the zipper where you removed the stops.
2. Place the two ends of the zipper teeth into the front two openings of the slider.
3. Holding the teeth together, move the slider up or down the zipper. It may require a few tries to get it sliding evenly.
4. Once the slider is operating, attach new bottom or top stops. If necessary, sew the bottom of the zipper closed and re-sew any seams required.

Drysuit Gasket Repair

Keep your drysuit or dry top watertight by replacing torn, deteriorated, or stretched-out neck, wrist, and ankle gaskets.

Required Equipment

• Repair kit that includes replacement latex gasket(s), sandpaper, Aquaseal® glue, and 303™ Protectant.
• Acetone or denatured alcohol.
• Wax paper.
• Masking tape.
• Pot or coffee can that fits snugly inside the gasket.
• Knife, razor blade, or scissors.
• Spoon.

1. Clean the new gasket with acetone or denatured alcohol.
2. Inspect the old gasket.
   • If the old gasket is still securely bonded to the drysuit fabric, use scissors to cut it away along the edge of the drysuit fabric (visible on the inside of the gasket). Leave a border on the old gasket to glue the new gasket one to.
   • If the old gasket is not securely bonded to the drysuit or if it is cracking or crumbling, remove it completely. Use a knife or razor blade to cut and scrape away all the latex.
3. With sandpaper, roughen the surface of the old gasket, or the surface of the drysuit fabric. Also roughen the inside of the new gasket, about an inch wide, where it will overlap the material.
4. Wrap the pot or coffee can with wax paper to keep glue from sticking to it. Slip the form inside the opening where you are replacing the gasket.
5. Stretch the new gasket onto the pot so that it overlaps the material by about an inch.
6. Roll the new gasket back onto itself to expose the sanded surface. You should now have two sanded surfaces exposed.
7. Apply a thin, even layer of Aquaseal glue to both sanded surfaces. Wait a couple of moments for the Aquaseal to become tacky, then gently roll the new gasket back down onto the material. With the back of a spoon or your thumb, work any air pockets out to the edges.
8. Wrap the glued joint with wax paper and hold it in place by wrapping it with masking tape.
9. Allow the new gasket to cure in a warm place for 12 to 24 hours.

Stretch a Tight Gasket

If your new gasket is a little too tight, insert a glass jar or other round form slightly larger than the circumference of your neck, wrist or ankle into the seal and leave it overnight.

Stretching gaskets is not a reversible process, so make an educated decision and be conservative. Do not cut a gasket to enlarge it. Cutting makes a less watertight seal, and uneven cutting can cause tearing.

Sealing Tent Seams

Over time, even a high-quality tent may develop small leaks, but you can re-seal your shelter to restore its impermeableness.

Required Equipment:

• Seam Sealer or SeamGrip®.
• Unscented talcum powder.

To repair leaking seams:

1. Set up the tent body in a well-ventilated area. Leave all the doors and windows of the tent open and do not add the fly.
2. If the seams are not taped, apply sealant to the seams in the floor. Crawl inside the tent, and apply a thin layer of sealant to the threads in the seams. Make sure you cover seams where webbing loops are attached.
3. If the seams are taped, seal the leaky seams from the outside of the tent. The sealant will not stick to the uncoated fabric on the outside of the tent, so apply sealant to areas where the tape has stitching through it. Apply enough sealant to soak through all layers of stitching.
4. If the fly is leaking, lay the fly on top of the tent. From the outside of the fly, apply sealant to the seams.
5. Allow the sealant to dry for 24 hours.
6. Before packing up the tent, dust talcum powder on the seams you sealed, so the cured sealant won't adhere to the fabric.

Button Repair – Sewing Bombproof Buttons

Lost a button and need to repair your garment? It’s easy to ensure it won’t happen again. Sew a spare button along the seam of your shirt near the bottom of the tail and you'll have a replacement should you lose or break a button!

Required Equipment

• Replacement button.
• Needle with a medium-sized eye.
• Unwaxed dental floss or one of the inside strands of some paracord.

1. Thread the needle with about a metre of unwaxed dental floss or paracord strand and tie a knot at one end.
2. Starting from the inside of the shirt, connect the button loosely to the shirt. Leave one or two millimetres of space between button and shirt.
3. Sew the button on with eight to ten stitches.
4. Wrap the remaining floss around the threads that connect the button to the shirt (between the shirt and the button) about four times, then push the needle through to the inside of the shirt and tie it off. Cut off the thread just beyond the knot.

Repairing Neoprene: Fixing Small Cuts, Abrasions, and Holes

Knife sliced across the sprayskirt while cutting bagels for a snack at sea? Wetsuit gouged by barnacles during a particularly heinous landing? Or maybe you snagged your Farmer John on a dead branch while portaging the family canoe? Don't despair – repair!

Required equipment:

• A tube of Aquaseal® glue.

For larger repairs you may also need:

• A piece of neoprene to use as patch material.
• Sand
• Wax paper.
• Strong thread and needle.

Small Cuts

Small cuts with no missing material are the easiest to fix. If the edges of the tear are touching when the fabric is not tensioned, you can simply glue the tear closed.

1. Gently pull apart the edges of the tear, trying not to tear it further.
2. Coat both edges with Aquaseal glue.
3. Allow the glue to cure briefly until it's tacky, then press the edges together for several minutes.
4. Let the glue dry overnight (10 to 14 hours).

Abrasions

Abrasions on the surface that expose the black foam rubber beneath, can become failure points where tears originate when the fabric is under tension. Covering the area with glue will reinforce the fabric, but it won't be pretty. Although you will distinguish yourself as a real paddler who prizes function over fashion.

1. Spread a generous amount of glue over the abraded area. Spread the glue 1 to 2 centimetres past the edges of the abrasion.
2. Glue is slippery when wet. If you need to maintain traction in the area, sprinkle sand on the glue 30 minutes after you've applied it.
3. Let the glue dry overnight (10 to 14 hours).

Holes

Full-on holes with missing material are the trickiest to repair. Sewn repairs can fail when the fabric stretches and contracts during use, causing the threads to saw through the neoprene. Sealing the seams with Aquaseal glue will reinforce the stitching and make the repair waterproof. Gluing on a patch, may be a better alternative.

1. Cut a round of oval patch that is 1 to 2 centimetres bigger than the hole. You can use fabric from a worn-out skirt or wetsuit, or ask for material from an obliging dive shop.
2. Spread a layer of glue around the hole and on the back of the patch.
3. Allow the glue to cure briefly until it becomes tacky, then apply the patch to the damaged area.
4. Cover the glued areas with wax paper to prevent sticking, and weight it down with something such as heavy book, or a can of paint.
5. Let the glue dry overnight (10 to 14 hours).