Safe Zone LLC - Home Safety, Article 2

Home Safety, Article 2
Your Home Outside:

Your home faces a lot of perils but none more persistent or successful than a thief. According to the FBI's report Crime in the United States: 2006¹, a burglary occurs every 14.4 seconds in the U.S. Most, 66.2%, of those were residential burglaries resulting in an average loss to the home owner of $1,834. You might be surprised to learn that most residential burglaries, 63.1%, occurred during the day between the hours of 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. when most people are gone. In contrast, most businesses (56.7%) are buglarized at night. In addition, there was a 1.3 percent increase in burglaries between 2005 and 2006 (the latest available FBI statistics).

Nationwide, burglaries cost victims an estimated $4 billion in lost propoerty.
While the majority of burglaries occur in metropolitan areas, the overwhelming majority, in all sections of the country, involved "unlawful entry", which means entry was gained without the use of force: usually through unlocked doors or windows.

In his study, The Efficacy of Home Security Measures, Dr. Timothy O'Shea found that owning a dog had little impact on a burglar's decision to enter a home. A finding further supported by earlier research (Buck, Hakim, & Rengert, 1993). His research made a surprising discovery that deadbolts were somewhat unimportant in detering a criminal. More important was the type of door the burglar was confronted with. He found that the type of locking mechanism was not nearly as important as the type of construction of the door. "A quality deadbolt lock set in a flimsy door, affixed to a weak frame is not a formidble barrier." We will discuss this in a bit more detail later in this article.

What he did find is a bit intuitive. Those neighborhoods that have a neighborhood watch group are less likely to be targeted than those without. He also found that neighbors who actually visit each other are less likely to be victims. Burglars know that when cohesion exists within a neighborhood setting their actions will be more closely scrutinized and reported so they avoid those areas.

Now, let's look at some ways you can reduce the likelihood that your home will be a burglar's next target.

First, you need to think like a burglar. He wants to get in and out of your home as easily as possible and with as little hassle as possible. The truth is he is going to steal from someone so your goal is to make your home as unattractive to him as possible so he will look elsewhere. Let's start outside.

1. Security Systems:

A study conducted by Simon Hakim, Ph.D. in 1991 concluded that homes without security systems are roughly 3 times more likely to be broken into than homes with security systems. Losses due to burglary average $400 less in residences with security systems than for a residence without security systems. He also found that in homes with security systems that were burglarized, the system was not turned on 41% of the time.

Clearly, there is a connection between having a security system and being protected. You have to remember to use the system, though.

2. Does your name appear anywhere outside your home? On your mailbox? On some type of placard? A burglar knows your address and if your name is displayed outside then you have given him all the information he needs to determine if you are home. He can just call 411 and ask for your telephone number. A simple phone call to your number will tell him whether anyone is home.

While you need your address posted for emergency services, there is no need to have your name displayed.

3. Doors

The following helpful hints are offered by the Tucson Police Department. You can view their brochure, Home Security Survey by clicking here

Unless otherwise noted, the following illustrations are courtesy of the Tucson Police Department

"Hinged Doors:

Reinforce Frame:
One method of doing this is to replace one screw in each of the hinge plates with a 2 1/2 inch screw. This will reach past the door frame into the 2x4 studs behind the door frame.

Security Strike Plate:
The strike plate is the metal piece on the door frame that the deadbolt "throw" goes into. It should be 4 or more inches in length and be mounted with two or more case-hardened screws at least 3 inches long.

Single Cylinder Deadbolt:
This lock has a keyway on the outside and a turn knob on the inside. It is recommended on all exterior doors. (If there is glass within 40 inches of the door lock, it should be covered with a security grille to prevent reaching through the glass area to unlock it.) The throw bolt should extend at least 1 inch from the edge of the door, and it should have a hardened steel pin inside the throw bolt. The lock should be installed with at least two 1/4 inch case-hardened steel fasteners, and should have a tapered or rotating guard around the key section so that it cannot be compromised with a pair of pliers.

Double Cylinder Deadbolt:

This lock is keyed in both the inside and outside, requiring a key to unlock it. It is the same as the single cylinder deadbolt, except the keyway on both sides of the door."

The FBI statistics in the second paragraph above told us most burglars enter a home without breaking in so make certain your doors are locked; even if you plan to be gone for only a few minutes. Even the best locks won't protect you if they aren't used.

Ideally, your door should be a solid core with a peep hole and no windows in the door or in the wall beside the door. It's easy enough to smash the window and reach inside to unlock it. Installing a deadbolt lock with a captive keylock will offer substantial protection over a single cylinder lock. Some even incorporate a removable thumblock. But take some time to think about it. Most crooks are not professionals. If they can't open the door and walk in then the next best thing to do is smash a window or kick the door in...or go some place else.

mul-t-lock.com

Deadbolts are excellent and we do recommend you install one on each of your exterior doors. Just remember that deadbolts are only as strong as the material they are installed in. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security just because you have a deadbolt installed.

cbc.com
Another word of caution when using a deadbolt with a captive keylock. The door cannot be opened if the key is removed. The same is true for removable thumblocks if the thumblock is removed. Either can prevent you from exiting the house in case of fire or other emergency. If you install one always leave the key and/or thumblock in place unless you leave and make certain everyone in the house, especially children, understand how to operate it. Be sure to check your local building codes. Some localities prohibit installation of this type of lock because of concerns about safety.

More from the Tuscson Police Department:

"Pin Hinges:

These are recommended for exterior doors that open out. A hinged door that opens out has the hinge pins on the outside, making it possible to remove the pins and open the door from the hinge side. To prevent this, remove one of the screws of the hinge (on the door frame side) and drive a nail into the hole, leaving the nail exposed 1/2 inch. Then cut off the head of the nail. Remove the matching screw from the other half of the hinge. The nail should now fit into this second hole when the door is closed, connecting the two parts of the hinge and securing the door from being opened by removing a hinge pin from the outside.

Install A 190-Degree Viewer:

A door viewer, or "peep hole" should be installed in all exterior doors where there is no visibility from inside to see who is at the door.

Double Door Entrances that have two swinging doors that close in the middle should have flush bolts installed on one of the doors. These bolts extend up into the frame at the top and down into the floor at the bottom, providing a base to lock the other door to.

Replace Door:

Any exterior door that is hollow core construction, or that is in weakened condition due to age or weathering should be replaced.

Grille Over Window In Door:

Doors that are half wood/half window should be replaced or have a security grille installed over the glass part. Install this grille on the inside of the door, or use tamper resistant fasteners, such as round-headed thru-bolts, if installing the grille on the outside. (An alternative to replacing the door would be to install a security wrought iron door on that entrance.)

Sliding Doors:

Take Up Slack:
Install panhead screws in the upper track of the movable panel of all sliding doors. The purpose is to prevent the sliding door from being lifted off the track and removed from the frame when it is in the closed position. These screws have rounded heads and should be installed about 2 feet apart. They should be screwed in so that the door can just barely slide by, while preventing it from being lifted up out of the track.

Use Charlie Bar Or Stick:

A Charlie bar is a commercially available device that mounts to the frame opposite the sliding door and swings down behind the door to stop it from sliding. A stick or dowel inserted snugly into the bottom track can be used in much the same way. (This recommendation will only work on doors that slide on the inside track.)

Pin Doors:
With the door in the closed position, drill a small-diameter hole from the inside center frame through into the outside frame, but not through the outside frame. Insert a nail or other sturdy pin. To be most effective the hole should be made at a slight downward angle to prevent the pin from falling out if someone tries to lift the door up out of the frame. Caution: When drilling holes in the frame great care should be taken to avoid drilling into or striking the glass. Tempered glass will frequently shatter on contact with the drill bit.

Auxiliary Latch (Or Lock):
Add another lock or latch to supplement existing one. This is recommended when the existing lock or latch provides inadequate protection.

Adjust Rollers:
Some modern sliding doors can be adjusted in order to prevent lifting or removing the door when it is in the closed position."

4. Garage Doors:

Add Auxiliary Lock:
Add another lock or latch to supplement the existing one. This may include a padlock on garage doors.

Pin Track:
On garage doors that roll up or slide overhead on a track, drill a hole in the track that the door moves in, while the door is in the closed position, and install a pin or padlock into the hole to prevent the door from moving along the track. If a pin is selected, it should be sturdy enough to withstand considerable pressure.

Electronic Door Opener:
Garage doors that are opened by remote control can often be opened by anyone possessing a remote control. These controls can be changed to different frequencies by turning small dials inside, until your frequency is found and your garage door opens. Use a pin in the track to stop the door from moving when you are gone, or add an auxiliary lock. Consider unplugging your garage door opener if you are gone for a long period of time, such as a vacation."

Now, let's talk about spare keys. Never place a spare key outside your house. Burglars know all the tricks and hiding spots so you might as well leave the door unlocked if you are going to leave a key outside. And you should get rid of that key rack in the kitchen that holds all your spare keys. It makes it all too easy for the burglar to steal your car once they get inside. And unless you know your spare house key was stolen, he'll have an easy way in when he comes back.

5. Windows: Just like doors, there are a lot of different types of windows. There are:

Double Hung - Sashes that open and close vertically. The most common type of window.
Single Hung - Only the bottom sash slides open.
Casement - Hinged on one side and crank open.
Rotating (or Tilt-Turn) - Open by pivoting around a central point.
Sliding - Sashes that move horizontally on a track.
Jalousie - Glass louvers that overlap.
Fixed Pane - The window does not open.
Awning (or Hopper Windows) - Hinged on top or bottom and swing open similar to casement windows.
Each type, except for Fixed Pane and Jalousie, has its own requirement for security locks but all of them can be equipped with a secure lock designed to keep more than just the elements out. Let's look at each one and discuss some simple but effective ways of making them more secure.

Double Hung Windows:

This is the most common type of window in homes and apartments today. Older windows of this type offered little in the way of security with a single window latch (called a claw latch) that can easily be opened from the outside. The claw latch was not designed as a security device. It's purpose is to keep the windows closed so the weather stays outside. Newer windows have two security claw locks that incorporate the "claw" directly into the lock. The pictures below will illustrate the difference.

Modern double hung windows incorporate a window stop so the window can be opened a few inches for ventilation and still prevent unauthorized entry into your home. The picture on the left below shows the window stop closed allowing the window to be fully opened. The picture on the right shows the window stop when it is in the open position.

If your home has older double hung windows or windows without security stops there is a fairly simple way to make them more secure and not invest a lot of money. Here's how you do it.

Pin Windows:

Double Hung Windows:
"With the window in the closed position, drill a small-diameter hole through the inside frame into the outside frame, but not through to the outside of the frame. The hole should be drilled at a slight downward angle to be most effective. Drill two holes for each window on each side of the window near the top. Insert a sturdy nail or pin in the holes. Caution: When drilling great care should be taken to avoid drilling into the glass."

If your window frame is large enough, use door hinge pins instead of nails. Door hinge pins are much strong than nails and can be purchased at most hardware stores for a few dollars. For secure ventilation, drill a second set of holes three inches above the first set. You can then open the window and insert the pins. That will will prevent someone from entering your home.

Single Hung Windows:
With single hung windows, only the lower sash is movable. Depending on the window frame, you may find that you can not drill into the the upper sash as described in the section on double hung windows. In that case, you can usually drill into the window track of the lower sash. Drill the first hole directly above the lower sash so the window can not be opened when the pin is in place. Drilling a second hole three inches above the first will allow the window to be safely opened for ventilation.

Casement Windows:

Adjust Or Replace Latch:
"If the latch is bent and not securing the window, adjust it so that the window closes and locks securely. If the latch is broken or cannot be adjusted it should be replaced. (Sometimes it is just covered by many layers of paint and when cleaned and realigned works again.)

Pin Latching Mechanism:
Remove the latch from the window and drill a hole through the latch housing and latch while the latch is in the closed position. Insert a sturdy pin or nail that is removable. Do not use a screw or bolt; they would not allow escape if necessary.

Remove Crank:
Removing the crank/handle may discourage someone from breaking the window pane to gain access to the handle. It does not stop the window from being opened. Do not screw or bolt the window shut.

Rotating Windows (Tilt-Turn):
Most modern rotating windows offer excellent security features. If you own older rotating windows or simply want to enhance the security of your newer windows, you might consider a window restrictor. There are several types on the market. As the name implies, they are designed to restrict how far the window can open.

They come in a wide variety of colors equipped with a key lock or without.

Sliding Windows:
Sliding windows can be secured in the same manner as sliding doors by using a charlie bar or wooden dowel in the track of the window that slides. In addition, there are a wide variety of auxiliary latches available. "Most clamp into the window frame behind the sliding window to stop the window from sliding past that point. Consider using the type that has a pointed screw. Greater security can be gained by drilling a small indentation in the window frame to give the latch screw a place to grab onto. Do not tighten the screw so tight that you cannot escape if necessary.

Overhead Screws Or Lift Locks:
These are recommended, along with auxiliary latches or a Charlie bar. Install lift locks or two round head screws (panhead) vertically into the upper track above the movable window about 6 inches in from the edges of the window frame. Adjust the screws until the window will just clear the screws as it slides. The screws will prevent the window from being lifted up and removed from the track from the outside.

Adjust Rollers:
Some newer sliding windows have adjustable rollers or expanders that can be set so that the window cannot be lifted out of the track. An auxiliary latch is still recommended for additional protection."

Jalousie Windows:
Because of the way they are constructed, jalousie windows are a very high security risk (not to mention a poor insulator). About the only way to enhance the security of a jalousie window is to install a protective window treatment such as burglar bars or expanded metal (security) mesh. These should be installed on the inside of the window with enough clearance for the window to operate. Compare the cost of replacing the jalousie window with any security enhancement you consider installing. You may find it just as cost effective to replace the window with a safer, more efficient, design.

Fixed Pane:
As the name implies, fixed pane windows can not be opened. Once again, the addition of burglar bars or security mesh will enhance the security of this type of window.

Awning Windows (Hopper Windows):
Whether they open at the top (Hopper style) or open at the bottom (awning style) this type of window can also benefit from a window restrictor.

General Thoughts About Windows:
Always close, latch and pin your windows if you are going to be gone. Treat second story windows just like first story windows. Buglars often have no problem gaining access to the second story and if your second story window is open they will use it.

In the section on Infants and Toddlers we told you that screens are meant to keep insects out not children in. Here are some statistics from the National SAFE KIDS Campaign (safekids.org):

Children are more likely to die or be severely injured from window-related falls than falls associated with any other product.

Each year, approximately 18 children ages 10 and under die from window fall-related injuries. An estimated 4,700 children ages 14 and under are treated in hospital emergency departments annually for injuries sustained from falling out of windows; 28 percent of these children require hospitalization. Head injuries account for the majority of these injuries.

The majority of window fall-related deaths (70 percent) occur during the spring and summer months.

Children falling from windows are more likely to be male, under age 5 and playing unsupervised at the time of the fall.

Window falls tend to occur in large urban areas, low-income neighborhoods, and deteriorating and overcrowded housing. Children living in apartment buildings have the highest number of window fall incidents - five times more than children living in residences.
So, how do you protect them? If your window stops open four inches or less then you need do nothing more than use them. If you do not have window stops or they open more than four inches, you need to install fire-safe window guards. These are not burglar proof window guards but restraints that an adult or older child can easily remove in case of an emergency. The NSC recommends that if you live on the sixth floor of an apartment building or below you should have removable safety guards. If you live above the sixth floor you should install permant guards.

Look for guards that have bars no more than four inches apart and be certain to choose a guard that is appropriate for your style of window (as described above).

The picture below illustrates one example of a fire-safety guard. This one is from the John Sterling Corporation and meets ATSM safety standards.

"Install Auxiliary Latch:
Add an additional device to supplement the existing latch or lock, such as a simple hook and eye commonly used on screen doors.

Secure Air Conditioning Unit From Inside:
Many air conditioners simply sit in window frames supported on legs or by straps on the outside. Secure the unit from the inside by attaching a bar to the unit that extends past both sides of the window frame so that the unit cannot be removed from the outside."

6. Miscellaneous Openings:

"Secure Access To Attic:
Any outside access doors to the attic or crawlspace should be secured with a hasp and padlock or covered by a security grille.

Secure Access To Basement:
All basement doors and windows may be secured using the same methods listed under Door Systems and Window Systems. Access to crawlspaces under the house should be secured with a hasp and padlock or covered by a security grille.

Block Off Or Replace Pet Door:
Any opening larger than 9 inches by 10 inches can be used to gain entrance to a home. You should block off pet doors by building a frame that allows you to slide a security plate into the opening when you will be gone, or look for the new security pet doors that will allow only your pet to enter, and/or do not allow a person to enter because of a trap or maze system.

Secure Skylight:
Skylights should be fastened securely to the roof with sheet screws (if installed from the outside, screws should be non-removable). Another option would be to install bars or a grille inside the house at or just above ceiling level."

7. Hedges, Trees and Shrubs:
Tall, overgrown or unkept landscaping can offer plenty of privacy for a would be burglar. Keep all hedges and shrubbery trimmed to eliminate hiding places.

Examine any tree limbs that have overgrown the house. They offer a way for the burglar to reach the second story. They also pose a hazard to your roof should a limb fall out of the tree. You might consider removing such limbs.

Planting any type of thorny bush such as Wintergreen barberries, Rotunda Chinese hollies, roses or even cacti can offer a living pin cushion for anyone foolish enough to climb into them.

8. Exterior Lighting:
Exterior lighting can be a great deterrent to a would be thief but remember they will only be seen at night. Our FBI statistics above told us that most burglaries occur during daylight hours. You want to make certain your lights are either controlled by a timer or by a photosensitive switch so the lights come on at dusk and go off at dawn. Exterior lights left on in the middle of the day advertise the fact that no one is home.

Since most burglaries occur during the day, you might consider having a radio or television on a timer to give the appearance that someone is home.

9. Vacation Time:
Nothing tells a burglar that no one is home better than newspapers lying in the yard, grass that hasn't been cut, or mail overflowing the mail box. Have a trusted neighbor or relative pick up any delivers (newpapers, mail, packages) and ask them to park their car in your driveway from time to time while you are away.

10. Stickers:
You can purchase security stickers for you doors and windows whether you actually have a security system installed or not.

11. Tools:
Leaving an outside shed open or your ladder lying on the ground neatly against the garage is inviting a problem. Burglars can use the ladder to gain access to upper story windows. So can trash containers and other items that might be left outside. Some garden tools can be used to pry open windows or doors. Make certain everything is put away and the outside shed is locked with a hasp and padlock.

12. Boxes at the Curb:
Placing the box your new TV came in next to the curb for trash pickup is advertising the fact that you have valuables inside. Always break the boxes down and place them so the listing of their contents is not easily seen.

13. I Spy With My Little Eye:
Walk around your house and look through the windows to see what items can easily be seen. The computer that can be seen from the front walk might make a tempting target for someone looking to make some fast money. If you can see it from outside so can anyone casing your house.

14. Fences:
If you are thinking of installing a fence remember that a wooden privacy fence can conceal a would be burglar. You might consider installing a split rail, chain link or open picket fence instead.

A final thought about burglary, if you have been the victim of a burglary and do not have a security system, you need to give some serious thought to installing one. The burglar knows you are going to replace everything that was stolen and he knows the layout of your home. When he comes back, and he might, his job will be a lot easier without the presence of a security system and everything will be brand new!

Burglars are not the only hazard that the outside of your home faces. Mother Nature can offer up some nasty tricks of her own. Here are a few of the more common things to watch out for:

15. Insects:
Your home offers a nice dry, climate controlled, area to live in so it is little wonder insects find it so attractive. While some are little more than a nuisance, there are three that can cause a lot of costly damage. They are termites, carpentar ants and powder post beetles.

Termites: Nothing causes panic in a homeowner like finding termites or the damage they leave behind. And for good reason. Termite damage causes an estimated $2.6 billion in damage each year. Damage that is not covered by insurance. So it only makes sense to inspect your home around the outside of the foundation.

Termites love moist soil because it is much easier to tunnel through. If you have mulch around your house, make certain it is several inches below your siding so you can spot any termite tunnels that might appear on the outside of your foundation.

Termites hate sun light so they build tunnels out of mud. Fortunately, they are pretty easy to spot. In the photo at right from doyourownpestcontrol.com, the brown line that runs across the concrete blocks is an example of a termite tunnel. The bad news is that once the tunnels appear the termites are probably inside your home. Call a qualified Pest Management Professional (PMP) if you are unsure how to make them pack their bags.

Carpenter Ants:
Carpenter ants loved to build their home in soft moist wood. If you have carpentar ants then you can probably expect to find a water problem as well. Carpentar ants are nocturnal so you will need to do your outside inspection late in the evening or early in the morning to find foraging trails. Once you track them back to their nest don't stop there. It's quite possible you will find more than one nest of the tenacious little critters. The picture at right, courtesy of doyourownpestcontrol.com, shows carpenter ant frass below an ant gallery. It's basically used wood the ants discard and it has the appearance of sawdust. It might also contain bits of insulation or vapor barrier from inside the wall.

If you suspect a carpentar ant gallery is active try listening to the wall you suspect they are in. Ants sound like crinkling cellophane.

Powder Post Beetles.
Powder Post Beetles generally attack hardwoods such as oak, walnut, cherry, hickory and ash. The adults lay their eggs in the hardwood then the larvae bore tunnels in the wood. Once they pupate into adults, then the adult bores out of the wood leaving a tiny round hole as in the picture at right from doyourownpestcontrol.com.

Check around wood trim and wooden door and window frames for signs of activity.

16. Water Damage:

Water infiltration on the exterior of your home can lead to costly repairs. Things to look for are stains, peeling paint and soft wood (rot). Start with an inspection of the roof. You can do this from the ground with a pair of binoculars or from a ladder if you wish. Look for punctures, cracks or breaks in the roofing material. If you find any, clean and patch the area with a compatible patching compound or sealer.

Clean and inspect gutters and downspouts. Inspect outside walls, doors and windows and repair or replace caulk, weather stripping, glazing, window seals, door seals or any other exterior area that is damaged. Examine your exterior siding and replace any missing or damaged fasteners or screws. Repair or replace punctured siding.

Make certain landscaping channels water away from the building to prevent water from accumulating around the foundation or basement walls.

In the winter, look for icicles hanging down or ice in the gutters indicating the presence of an ice dam. The illustration at right from henryshousework.com shows how an ice dam can create a leak. They are caused by a lack of or too little insulation and/or ventilation in the attic. Warm air escapes into the attic and rises to the peak where it melts the snow on the uppermost part of the roof. The melted snow runs down the roof toward the gutter and refreezes as it comes into contact with the cooler roof near the gutters. By increasing the insulation in the attic and/or increasing the ventilation you can prevent warm air in your house from escaping into the attic. The snow on the roof will stay nice and cold and you will be a lot more comfy.

17. Rails, Steps and Sidewalks:

Check any rails to ensure none are loose. Check your steps for any loose or rotted boards, loose or broken stone or concrete, and check your sidewalks for any hazard that might cause someone to slip, trip or fall. Disasters can come in the form of a lawsuit as easily as a burglar.

18. Driveways:

Concrete driveways should have a good quality sealer applied every three to five years. Preparation of the concrete surface is key to allow the sealer to bond with the concrete. The concrete surface should be clean prior to applying the sealer. A new aspalt driveway should be allowed to cure for 3-6 months before a sealcoat is applied. Some professionals recommend allowing the asphalt to cure for a year. Aspalt driveways should have a sealcoat applied every two to three years. Repair and fill any cracks in the asphalt and be certain to clean the driveway of any rocks or debris prior to applying the sealcoat.

19. Chimneys:

Check chimneys for loose or missing bricks. Tuckpointing may be necessary if mortar is loose between the bricks or stone. Check the chimney where it meets the house for flashing or other waterproofing materials to ensure they are in solid shape and not allowing water infiltration into the structure or between the chimney and your house. Make certain the rain cap is in place on top of the chimney.

20. Other piping:

Check the flashing of other pipes that exit your roof or walls. Furnace and hot water chimneys, exhaust vents, drain vents, and dryer vents are all possible sources of leaks if the flashing around them is missing or damaged. Dryer vents that vent through a wall should be protected with a bird screen.

22. Central Air Conditioners (Heat Pumps):

Clear grass clippings, dirt, and leaves from around the outside unit regularly.

Gosh, and you thought the outside of your house was going to be a cake walk. In many ways the outside of your house is the most important because you want to convey, very quickly, to a burglar that your house is just too difficult for him to want to tackle. You also want it to serve as a first line of defense against any intruders, human or otherwise.

Now, if you are ready, let's take a look inside your home. Just Click here.

¹ 2006 - Crime in the United States. Burglary. http://www.fbi.gov/ucr/cius2006/offenses/property_crime/burglary.html. September 25, 2007.

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