Home Safety, Article 3

Your Home Inside:

Is there any place on earth more comfortable and safe than inside your own home? It might be comfortable but it is hardly safe. In fact, more people are injured and killed inside their own home than just about any place else. In fact, according to the National Safety Council, falls are the fifth leading cause of death behind cancer, stroke, motor vehicle accidents and suicide. 1 in every 128 people will die from a fall. This section is designed to look at some of the hazards that you might not even know exist inside your very own castle.

Let's begin in the basement or crawl space of your home and work our way up to the attic. When we are done, you will have a much better understanding of the risks your home poses and how to deal with them. Ready? Here we go.

Basement or Crawl Space:

Termites, Carpentar Ants, Powder Post Beetles:
If you remember, in the previous section we talked about inspecting the outside of your home for termites, carpenter ants, and powder post beetles. You need to continue your investigation beneath your home. The very same clues and symptoms we discussed for the outside apply inside, too. Use a sharp object such as an ice pick or awl to poke the wood beams along the outer wall or anywhere you suspect insects have made a home. The wood should be dry and tough. If you can easily poke the awl into the wood, you have a problem. Another way to do it is to tap the wood with a solid object such as the handle of a screw driver. Be suspicious of wood that sounds hollow.

There are a number of good chemicals on the market to deal with termites both inside and out. Products such as Cyper TC or Permethrin Termite Chemical 36% are applied to the soil outside and act as a barrier to repel termites. Both are for use outdoors.

A newer product Termidor© is undetectable to termites and works both by contact and ingestion. It can be used both inside and in basements and crawl spaces. Termidor© is also affective against carpenter ants.

Some states, such as New York, limit the type of chemicals that can be used. Phantom© is another non-detectable product that works by contact and ingestion. It can also be used inside and out and is certified safe for food handling areas.

BASF offers a great product brochure about Phantom© that gives you the facts about termites as well as what they look like. You can download the brochure here.

You can also install termite bait stations in your yard to guard against subterranean termites, the most common type. It's basically a small, perforated plastic holder that contains a chemically treated bait stake.

Many states and the EPA ban the use of many chemicals except by trained professionals. And you may not be all too keen about tackling the control of termites yourself. Check out the National Pest Management Association's (NPMA) web site where you can find a termite professional in your area or ask them questions online.

As with any chemical, always read and follow the manufacturers instructions, warnings and safety precautions.

Water Damage:
Check the walls for any signs of efflorescence, that white, chalky substance that's left after water has been present. It's caused by water infiltrating the concrete, dissolving salts that are present in the masonry, and then leaving the salt behind once the water evaporates. Look for any signs of mold, mildew or stains. Look for any cracks, bulges or other deformities in the walls. All are signs of water build up, or hydrostatic pressure, outside the basement wall.

Aside from the damage hydrostatic pressure can do to the structure, the water also brings in molds and mildews from the soil outside and gives those already inside a nice cozy place to grow. If you have paneling in your basement that shows stains or wet spots you might want to pull some of it out far enough so you can peer behind it. The chances are very good that mold is growing back there.

Mold and Mildew:
Mold can damage both your home and your health. While you might not be able to see it, if your basement or crawl space has a musty, earthy smell, the chances are better than not that mold is present.

Mold is everywhere. It's spores are in the air we breath and on virtually every surface we touch. It's just a natural part of life. But when enough spores are present and mold finds an environment conducive to growth, it can begin to cause problems. According the the Journal of the American Medical Association and the Centers for Disease Control, mold spores can create an allergic reaction to those who are sensitive to it. Symptoms include:
  • Respiratory problems, such as wheezing, and difficulty in breathing
  • Nasal and sinus congestion
  • Burning and watering eyes
  • Dry, hacking cough
  • Sore throat
  • Nose and throat irritation
  • Shortness of breath
  • Skin irritation
Always seek medical attention if you know you are allergic to mold spores or you experience any of the symptoms listed above.

Hydrostatic pressure isn't the only source of water in your basement. Be sure to check around and behind the washing machine, sink cabinets, water heaters or other sources of water for any leaks that might be present.

An often overlooked source of leaks are the cold and hot water lines feeding your washing machine. Check these lines for any cracks or leaks and replace them as needed. If your laundry room is upstairs in the main part of the house, a rupture in one of these hoses can cause castrophic damage in short order.

According to the Federal Emergency Management Association (FEMA), you can treat mold problems in the following way:

Wear a dust mask and gloves while cleaning and follow these cleaning steps:

  • Identify and remove any sources of moisture.
  • Begin drying any and all materials that got wet.
  • Remove and dispose of mold-contaminated materials.
  • Clean non-porous or semi-porous items.
  • Disinfect surfaces by mixing 1/4 to 1/2 cup bleach per gallon of water and apply to surfaces where mold growth was visible before cleaning. Apply with a spray bottle, garden sprayer, sponge or other suitable method.
  • When disinfecting heavily soiled surfaces, it is important to change the disinfecting solution frequently to ensure effectiveness. It should be changed when it becomes cloudy.
  • Allow the treated surfaces to dry naturally and use fans or air conditioning to speed up the drying process
If you find your problem is hydrostatic pressure or water entering through the walls of your basement, There are things you can do. Very often, you can alleviate some of the water problems by ensuring the landscaping outside channels water away from the building and by extending the end of your gutter downspouts. The further away from your home you can channel the water the better. If you live in an area with a high water table then you may need to consult a water proofing specialist to fix the problem. Permanent repairs can generally be made by a qualified professional. Just get at least three estimates and be certain to check with the Better Business Bureau and any consumer protection group such as Angie's List prior to hiring a contractor.

If you have a crawl space instead of a basement, you will want to inspect it to see if you have any standing water beneath the house. Proper landscape sloping to channel the water away and properly functioning gutters and downspouts will usually resolve issues concerning water under the crawl space. But make certain you don't have a leaking pipe.

Make certain the vapor barrier is in good shape and covers all areas of the crawl space. It should consist of a 6 millimeter plastic that covers the entire surface of the crawl space and be anchored to the foundation walls so the dirt beneath it is, in effect, sealed.

The foundation should have insulation installed around the inside or outside perimeter. The U.S. Department of energy offers some great tips on insulating your foundation. You can view their information by clicking here.

It is typical, in most homes with basements, to have utility shutoffs located there. Know how to shut off the valves for gas, oil, water, and the main eletrical supply. Tag each valve so you can easily identify it in an emergency. A word of caution about shutting off your gas. Always have a professional turn the gas back on and re-light all pilot lights.

There are a number of types of hot water heaters available:
  • Storage (The most common type)
  • Demand (Heats water as needed)
  • Indirect Water Heaters (Water is heated by your heating system)
  • Heat Pump Water Heaters (Same principle as heat pump heating system)
  • Triple-Integrated Heat Pumps (Heats house and water)
  • Solar Water Heater
By far, the most common type of water heater is the storage type. This is the kind that is found in most homes today. Your water heater represents about 13% of your overall energy bill so any reductions in cost can translate into money in your pocket. Here are some things you can do to improve the efficiency of your water heater and reduce the overall costs associated with operating it.

    1. Reduce the temperature setting:
    Most factories set the thermostat at 140°F. This is generally a higher temperature than you need. Unless your dishwasher specifically calls for 140°F you can safely lower the temperature to 120-130°F.

    Each 10°F reduction in temperature will save you between 3% - 5% on your annual water heating bill. It will also extend the life of your water heater (typically 13 years for a conventional storage type) and reduce the possibility that you will be scalded.

    2. Insulate your water heater:
    Wrapping your water heater with an insulating blanket will reduce your annual water heating cost by 4% - 9% per year and pay for itself within the first year. Make certain the air inlet and exhaust hood are not covered on a gas or oil fired water heater.

    3. Insulate hot water pipes:
    To reduce convection between the hot water in the pipe and the surrounding air, you can insulate the hot water pipes at least three feet from the water heater. It's not a bad idea to insulate them as far along the run as you can.

    4. Fix leaky faucets:
    A leaky hot water faucet can leak nearly 2000 gallons of water per year. If you have a 40 gallon hot water heater, that's 50 tanks of hot water down the drain!!!! A simple washer can generally fix the leak.

    5. Drain your water heater each month:
    Mineral deposits and grit can accumulate in the bottom of your water tank and lead to premature failure of the lower element in an electic water heater and less efficiate heating in a gas water heater.


    howstuffworks.com


The diagram above from HowStuffWorks.com illustrates the inside of a typical storage water heater. Both electric and gas are equipped with a storage tank and a drain valve. You can attach a garden hose to the drain valve and allow the water heater to drain outside (if located someplace other than a basement) or to a floor drain. Open the drain valve and allow from a pint to a gallon or two of hot water to drain from the tank. This will allow any sediment that has collected in the bottom of the tank to be flushed out.

The amount of water you need to drain will depend on the quality of water in your area. If your water is particularly hard then you may need to drain more water in order to flush the contaminants out of the tank.

Make certain the chimney or flue on gas water heaters is in good working order. A leak in the chimney can release carbon monoxide into the living space.

If you need to replace your water heater, consider replacing it with a high efficiency storage model. They are rated according to their Energy Factor (EF). An EF rating of 1.0 is 100% efficient and the lower the number the less efficient the heater is. Here is a table comparing the EF of various types of water heaters. The larger the water heater the less efficient they generally are because they have a larger surface area.

Minimum Water Heater Energy Factors
Tank size Gas Oil Electric
30 gallons 0.56 0.53 0.91
40 gallons 0.54 0.53 0.90
50 gallons 0.53 0.50 0.88
60 gallons 0.51 0.48 0.87
Virginia Department of Mines, Mineral, and Energy


It's also a good idea to strap your water heater to the wall to prevent it from tipping over during an earthquake. Just about every place on the planet is prone to earthquakes, some more than others. Epicenters, over a 35 year period, were recorded just about everywhere. See the map.

Make certain you fasten the straps securely to wall studs.

Stairways and Rails:
According to the National Ag Safety Database, in 1990, nearly 1 million people required hospital room treatment for falls on stairs and steps. They offer some sound safety advice about your basement stairs.

  • It is as important to keep your stairs in good repair as it is your floors.
  • Keep stairs and steps well lit and free of objects. Good lighting is cheap insurance for safety in all traffic areas, especially stairs. Make sure that light switches are accessible from the top and bottom of the stairway.
  • Fasten any stair coverings securely.
  • Provide sturdy handrails.
  • Carry loads that are small enough to not block your vision and allow you a free hand.
  • Take your time when going up or down stairs.
  • Don't use stairways to store boxes, tools, equipment or odds and ends, even temporarily.
  • Use extra care going up or down stairs when wearing high heels, house slippers, long dresses or robes.
  • Never use small rugs at the top or bottom of stairways.
  • For extra caution, paint the top and bottom steps white. Or, put white stripes on the front edges of steps.
  • Mix sand with paint for a rough, non-slip surface on basement or outdoor steps.
  • Keep a flashlight handy when using poorly lit stairways.

Sump pumps:
If your basement has a sump pump to remove water and reduce hydrostatic pressure then there are a couple of things you need to do to make certain it will be available when you need it.

  • Consider replacing your existing sump pump with one that has a battery backup or install a backup pump with a battery power supply. These are generally 12 volt marine batteries. The diagrams below show a couple of installation methods.

    Sump Pump Sump Pump
    floodnot.com

  • Ensure the sump pit and pump intake are free of debris.

Furnace:
  • Ensure the chimney or flue is in good working order on oil or gas fired furnaces. Like your water heater above, a leaky flue can allow carbon monoxide to enter the living space of your home.
  • Check the filters each month and replace or clean them (depending on the type) as necessary.
  • Read your owner's manual. If your furnace is equipped with a blower motor it may need to be lubricated. Check any belts for signs of wear and replace as necessary. Follow your owner's manual safety recommendations when working with the blower. Remember, if you don't turn off the furnace, the blower could turn on while you are working on it!!!
  • If your furnace is equipped with a condensate drain, make certain it is flowing freely.
If you are considering replacing your existing furnace, here are some terms from PSEG.com that you will run into.

A Glossary of Heating Terms

AFUE% - Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a furnace's heating efficiency. The higher the AFUE%, the more efficient the product. The government's established minimum AFUE rating for furnaces is 78%.

Air Handler - The portion of the system that moves heated or cooled air throughout a home's ductwork.

Balance Point - An outdoor temperature, usually between 30° F and 45° F, at which a heat pump's output exactly equals the heating needs of the home. Below the balance point, supplementary electric resistance heat is needed to maintain indoor comfort.

Btu - British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water (about one pint) by one degree F.

Evaporator Coil - The portion of a heat pump or central air conditioning system that is located in the home and functions as the heat transfer point for warming or cooling indoor air.




Split System - A heat pump or central air conditioning system with components located both inside and outside the home. The most common design for home use.

Supplementary Heat - The auxiliary or emergency heat, usually electrical resistance heat, provided at temperatures below a heat pump's balance point.

That does it for the basement. Learning anything yet? Let's walk upstairs (slowly and hold the hand rail. Remember those fall statistics) and see what dangers lurk in the main living quarters of your home. Just click here to continue.





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