Home Safety, Article 4

Your Home Inside:

Your Living Area:

We will start this section by listing some items you need to have available in your home. Things that just might mean the difference between being a survivor and not.

1. Smoke Detectors:
There are several types of smoke detectors on the market. The two most common types are ionization and photoelectric.
  • Ionization: This type of detector uses a small amount of radioactive material to ionize air inside a sensing chamber. An alarm is triggered when a predetermined level of smoke particles enter the chamber. These detectors are generally more effective at detecting fast-flaming fires which consume combustible materials rapidly and spread quickly like a grease fire in the kitchen. They are generally the cheaper of the two types.

  • photoelectric: They consist of a light emitting diode and a light sensitive sensor in the sensing chamber. An alarm is set off when the presence of suspended smoke particles in the sensing chamber causes the light beam to scatter. They are generally more effective at detecting slow fires (cigarettes burning in couches or bedding) which smolder for hours before bursting into flame.
Smoke detectors should be installed on every floor (including basement),in the main hall leading to the bedrooms and inside each bedroom. In addition, one should be installed in the garage. They should be tested once a month and the batteries replaced when you adjust your clocks in the spring and fall. Smoke detectors should be mounted high on a wall or on the ceiling. A wall-mounted detector should be positioned with the top of the detector 6-12 inches below the ceiling. A ceiling mounted detector should be positioned at least four inches away from the nearest wall.

As we indicated in the section on Infants (the first article in Family Safety), we strongly recommend a smoke alarm that uses both a recording of a parent's voice and an audible alarm.

2. Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detectors:
Carbon Monoxide is an oderless, colorless and tasteless gas formed with a specific gravity of 0.9657. Air has a specific gravity of 1.0 so carbon monoxide will readily blend in the air in your home. In other words, you don't have to worry about it being a heavier than air gas. The placement of a carbon monoxide detector should be on the ceiling similar to a smoke detector. Since carbon monoxide may be emitted by home heating equipment, it will rise toward the ceiling with the warm air.

Like smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors should be placed on each floor of the residence and outside each bedroom.

Homes that are all electric are far less likely to encounter carbon monoxide than a home that uses gas or oil. However, a carbon monoxide detector is still a good idea if you have an attached garage or if you use a back up generator or oil/kerosene lamps during an electrical outage. Even a fireplace in an all electric home can pose a potential for carbon monoxide poisoning. Be safe, it's not worth the risk when the price of a detector is so low!

3. Radon-Detector Kit:
Radon (RN) is considered a radioactive noble gas that is formed by the decay of radium. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Radon is considered a health threat and is estimated to cause 21,000 deaths in the U.S. each year, generally from induced lung cancer.

Based on a national residential radon survey completed in 1991, the average indoor radon level is about 1.3 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) in the United States. The average outdoor level is about 0.4 pCi/L.

So the threat is real. However, a number of factors determine the amount of Radon in your home. They include soil types, the weather and soil moisture to name a few. You can check the Radon level in your home by using a do-it-yourself Radon kit. Many hardware stores are now stocking them. Or, you can find the contact information for your state Radon contact by clicking here. Many states maintain a list of Radon contractors.

4. Night Lights:
Have you ever stubbed your toe on a chair leg while trying to navigate in the dark of night? Of course you have. We've all done it. We told you in the previous section how prevalent falls were and here is an area where you can do something to prevent being a fall victim. Inexpensive night lights can provide enough lighting to keep you safe on the way to the fridge for that midnight snack. Look for L.E.D., flourescent or electroluminescent lights with built in photocells. They automatically turn on and off and offer a cooler-to-the-touch, environmentally friendly option over those with incandescent bulbs. They will cost you less to operate, too.

5. Sturdy One-Step Stool:
How many times have you seen someone use a kitchen chair to stand on to reach that top shelf of the cabinet. The truth is, if you can stand on it, someone has used it as a step stool. We've even seen folks standing in a swivel office chair with rollers to reach things!! And we wonder why we fall. Invest in a sturdy one or two step stool to reach those out of the way things.

6. Rubber Suction Bath Mats/Slip-Resistant Throw Rugs:
The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) reports that in 2003 there were over 304,800 trips to the emergency room because of accidents in the tub and shower. Over 800,000 people sought treatment either from the ER, urgent care, or family physician. Of that number, 9% were hospitalized.

Standing on soapy or wet feet on a slick surface such as a porcelain or fiberglass tub or tiled shower is a dangerous thing to do. Protect yourself and use rubber suction bath mats in your tub and/or shower and use slip-resistant throw rugs will prevent slips when you step out.

7. Grab Bars:
Every bathtub and shower should be equipped with grab bars to assist you when you enter or exit the bath. If your bath is not equipped with grab bars, we recommend having a professional install them. They should be fastened securely into the wall studding.

8. Handrails:
According to the National Safety Council, stairs and steps account for nearly one half of all fatal falls in the home. Sturdy handrails should be securely mounted on both sides of your stairs.

9. Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs):
The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) offers a great explanation of GFCIs. "A "GFCI" is a ground fault circuit interrupter. A ground fault circuit interrrupter is an inexpensive electrical device that, if installed in household branch circuits, could prevent over two-thirds of the approximately 300 electrocutions still occurring each year in and around the home. Installation of the device could also prevent thousands of burn and electric shock injuries each year.

The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric shocks Because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some electrical fires and reduce the severity of others by interrupting the flow of electric current."

GFCI The picture to the right shows a typical GFCI. You can see the red "test" button just above the black "reset" button. Use the following tips to periodically test each of the GCFIs in you home:
  • Push the "Reset" button located on the GFCI receptacle, first to assure normal GFCI operation.
  • Plug a nightlight (with an "ON/OFF" switch) or other product (such as a lamp) into the GFCI receptacle and turn the product "ON."
  • Push the "Test" button located on the GFCI receptacle. The nightlight or other product should go "OFF."
  • Push the "Reset" button, again. The light or other product should go "ON" again.
Most newer homes should be equipped with GFCI recepticles. If your home does not have them, you should install them in the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room and in outside recepticles.

You can purchase GFCI recepticles, breakers and portable GFCI devices. Always look for the Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) mark to ensure the electrical product you are purchasing meets rigid testing and safety requirements.

10. Fire Extinguishers:
Fire extinguishers come in a variety of types and it is important to choose the correct one. Fire-extinguisher101.com has a great article on the types of extinguishers and what they are used for. You can visit their web site by clicking here.

When using a fire extinguisher, remember the acronym PASS. It stands for Pull the pin, Aim the nozzle, Squeeze the handle, and Sweep the nozzle at the base of the fire.

Most are equipped with a guage so make certain you check them periodically and keep them in a handy location away from an obvious source of fire such as a stove or fireplace. A fire extinguisher will do you no good if you can not get to it because of the fire.

11. First-Aid Kit:
We outlined the essentials of a good first aid kit in Section I, Step 3. The American Red Cross has some well stocked and affordable first aid kits available from their online store. You can visit them by clicking here.

Periodically check the dates on the kit's supplies and restock as needed. Always restock if items are used.

Incidentally, cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly make excellent fire starters in an emergency situation.

12. Flashlights:
Keep a rugged, reliable flashlight handy in case of power outages and severe weather. Keep additional batteries on hand and test the flashlight each month when you test your smoke alarms and CO alarms. We like the Maglite© in the AA or AAA battery size. They are made of machined aluminum, they are water resistant, they offer spot and flood light capability and they offer a patented candle mode for use in a power outage.




Maglite is now introducing an LED version of their flashlight for even more reliability. This is not meant to be a product endorsement but we know what works and we have a LOT of maglites. We have them in our home, office, vehicles, first aid kits, bug out bags and we carry them everywhere. You can buy the AA size with bulb for around $10.00. That's pretty cheap when you need to shed some light on the subject.

13. NOAA All-Hazard Alert Radio:
National Weather Radio (NWR) is a nationwide network of radio stations broadcasting continuous weather information directly from a nearby National Weather Service office . NWR broadcasts National Weather Service warnings, watches, forecasts and other hazard information 24 hours a day. Here are some tips from NWR on selecting an All-Hazard Alert Radio:

Residential Grade Radios and Features

Prices can vary from $20 to $200, depending on the model. Many receivers have an alarm feature, but some may not. Among the more useful features in a receiver are:

Tone alarm: The National Weather Service will send a 1050 Hz tone alarm before most warning and many watch messages are broadcast. The tone will activate all the receivers which are equipped to receive it, even if the audio is turned off. This is especially useful for warnings which occur during the night when most people are asleep.

SAME technology: SAME, or Specific Alert Message Encoding allows you to specify the particular area for which you wish to receive alerts. Most warnings and watches broadcast over NOAA Weather Radio are county- or independent city-based (parish-based in Louisiana), although in a few areas of the country the alerts are issued for portions of counties. Since most NWR transmitters are broadcasting for a number of counties, SAME receivers will respond only to alerts issued for the area (or areas) you have selected. This minimizes the number of “false alarms” for events which might be a few counties away from where you live.

Selectable alerting of events: While SAME allows you to specify a particular area of interest, some receivers allow you to turn off the alarm for certain events which might not be important to you. For example, if you live in a coastal county, but not right at the beach, you might not care about Coastal Flood Warnings.

Battery backup: Since power outages often occur during storms, having a receiver with battery backup can be crucial. However, unless you have a portable unit which you will use away from other power sources, an AC power connection is recommended.

External antenna jack: While most receivers come with a whip antenna which can usually be extended out from the unit, depending on your location you may need an external antenna to get a good reception. Some receivers come with an external antenna jack (normally in the back of the unit) which will allow you to connect to a larger antenna (indoors or outdoors). You can often purchase these as accessories at the place where you bought your receiver, or from most stores with an electronics department. NWR broadcasts are in the Public Service VHF frequencies, just above FM radio and between TV channels 6 and 7 - so an antenna designed for VHF televisions or FM radios should work. Or, you can make your own antenna. Go to this web site for more information.

Broadcasts are found in the VHF public service band at these seven frequencies (MHz):

162.400
162.425
162.450
162.475
162.500
162.525
162.550

All-Hazard Alert Radios can be found at most electronics stores.

Now that you have acquired the 13 most important items to have in your home, let's take a look at some hazards you need to be aware of:

Lead Hazard:
According to the NSC, about 38 million homes contain some lead paint - about 40% of all US housing. In addition, leaded gasoline emissions (banned in the early 1990s) were deposited in the soil near highway and busy roads. Those deposits still contaminate many yards.

Although lead plumbing solder and lead solder on food cans were banned in the 1980s, lead soldered pipes and pipes made of lead still continue to serve as water service lines in many older homes and U.S. cities. Lead from the solder and pipes leaches into the water and contaminates it.

You probable were not aware of it but lead dust causes more lead poisonings than any other lead exposure. Millions of U.S. homes built before 1978 contain lead dust; microscopic dust particles that are brought in on shoes, clothes and toys that have been in the yard.

According the the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), "lead affects practically all systems within the body. Lead at high levels (lead levels at or above 80 micrograms per deciliter of blood) can cause convulsions, coma, and even death. Lower levels of lead can cause adverse health effects on the central nervous system, kidney, and blood cells. Blood lead levels as low as 10 micrograms per deciliter can impair mental and physical development."

What can you do to protect yourself? Here are some suggestions:
  • Lead paint should be tested by a lead "abatement" professional. They use a range of methods when checking your home, including:
    • Visual inspection of paint condition and location.
    • A portable x-ray fluorescence (XRF) machine.
    • Lab tests of paint samples.
    • Surface dust tests.
    Never attempt to remove lead paint yourself!!! You can poison yourself and contaminate your home and yard by failing to follow stringent safety precautions.

    The EPA has an excellent brochure on selecting a quilified lead "abatement" professional. You can view it in pdf format by clicking here.

    If you are planning to rent or purchase a home built before 1978, federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying a pre-1978 housing:
    • Residential Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Program
      • LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
      • SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to 10 days to check for lead hazards.

    In addition, federal law requires that contractors provide lead information to residents before renovating a pre-1978 housing:
    • Pre-Renovation Education Program (PRE)
      • RENOVATORS have to give you a pamphlet titled Protect Your Family from Lead in Your Home, before starting work. You can view a pdf copy of the pamphlet by clicking here.
  • Take precautions before your contractor or you begin remodeling or renovations that disturb painted surfaces (such as scraping off paint or tearing out walls):
    • Have the area tested for lead-based paint.
    • Do not use a belt-sander, propane torch, heat gun, dry scraper, or dry sandpaper to remove lead-based paint. These actions create large amounts of lead dust and fumes.
    • Lead dust can remain in your home long after the work is done.
    • Temporarily move your family (especially children and pregnant women) out of the apartment or house until the work is done and the area is properly cleaned. If you can't move your family, at least completely seal off the work area.
    • Follow other safety measures to reduce lead hazards. You can find out about other safety measures in the EPA brochure titled Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home. You can view it by clicking here. This brochure explains what to do before, during, and after renovations.
    • The EPA also offers a brochure titled, Protect Your Family From Lead During Renovation, Repair and Painting. You can view it in pdf form by clicking here.
    • If you have already completed renovations or remodeling that could have released lead-based paint or dust, get your family and yourself tested for exposure to lead. Only a blood test can determine if you and your family have been exposed.

  • Lead levels in your drinking water are likely to be highest if:
    • You have faucets or fittings of brass, which contain lead.
    • your home or water system has lead pipes, or
    • your home has copper pipes with solder, and
      • the house is less than five years old, or
      • you have naturally soft water, or
      • water often sits in the pipes for several hours.
    Short of replacing all the pipes in your home, there are some steps you can take to reduce the amount of lead in your water.

    Flush Your Pipes Before Drinking
    Anytime the water in a particular faucet has not been used for six hours or longer, "flush" your cold-water pipes by running the water until it becomes as cold as it will get. (This could take as little as five to thirty seconds if there has been recent heavy water use such as showering or toilet flushing. Otherwise, it could take two minutes or longer.) The more time water has been sitting in your home's pipes, the more lead it may contain.

    Only Use Cold Water for Consumption
    Use only water from the cold-water tap for drinking, cooking, and especially for making baby formula. Hot water is likely to contain higher levels of lead.The two actions recommended above are very important to the health of your family. They will probably be effective in reducing lead levels because most of the lead in household water usually comes from the plumbing in your house, not from the local water supply.

    The only way to determine if your water contains lead contaminates is to have it tested. Contact your local health department or the water supplier to find out how to get your water tested.
  • Your County Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service will perform a soil test and most will test for the presence of lead for an additional charge. You can typically expect to pay from $10-$20 for a soil test and an additional $10-$20 to test for the presence of lead.

    Currently, the best ways of dealing with high lead soils are to 1) immobilize the lead by raising soil pH to above 6.5. This is particularly important in gardens since lead is relatively unavailable to plants when the soil pH is above this level. You will want to raise the pH in your yard soil as well and add organic matter followed by the planting of sod to control dust. 2) Mixing or covering the high lead soil with clean (low lead) soil, or 3) eliminate the lead by physically removing the soil. A child who gets enough iron and calcium will absorb less lead. Foods rich in iron include eggs, red meats, and beans. Dairy products are high in calcium. Do not store food or liquid in lead crystal glassware or imported or old pottery. If you reuse old plastic bags to store or carry food, keep the printing on the outside of the bag.

    For futher information or if you have questions concerning lead, contact the National Lead Information Center.

    By Phone:  call and speak with a specialist Monday through Friday, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm eastern time (except Federal holidays) at 1(800) 424-LEAD [5323].

    By Recorded Message:  the NLIC telecommunications systems has the capability to receive recorded messages  in English and Spanish 24-hours a day, seven days a week at 1(800) 424-LEAD [5323].

    By FAX:  585-232-3111

    By Mail:  422 South Clinton Avenue, Rochester, NY 14620 

Carpets and Rugs:
your carpets and rugs contain everything that is tracked in on them or dropped on them. And some of today's vacuum cleaners do a poor job of getting them clean. The next time your baby is crawling across the carpet think about some of the things that are in that carpet. Things like:
  • Dust mites (can worsen asthma and allergies)
  • animal dander, hair, urine and feces when pets are present
  • pesticides
  • lead dust
Yuck is right! It is not possible to sanitize your carpet but you can go a long way in protecting your family from the contaminants that find their way into your carpets. Here are some suggestions:
  • Prevention is the first place to start. Since most debris is tracked in it is a good idea to have a rug or mat at the doorway to collect the dirt as you enter the house. The rug should be large enough to capture several steps and it must be vacuumed at least once a week using a HEPA equipped filter vaccuum.

  • Choose the right vacuum cleaner:
    • Upright vacuums are best for deep-cleaning carpets. Canister vacuums, on the other hand, are better for cleaning bare floors and stairs, drapes, and upholstery using tools.

    • Look for a vacuum with an easy on/off switch either on the body or on the handle, a suction control, a switch to turn the rotator brush on/off, a full bag/bin indicator, a manual pile adjustment and a retractable cord.

    Recently, an independent testing lab gave the Kenmore (Sears) Progressive with Direct Drive (35922), the Hoover Windtunnel 2 (U8311-900) and the Eureka Boss Smart Vac Ultra (4870) top marks for upright cleaners. The Eureka and Kenmore both have better than average repair histories.

    Using a central vacuum system that vents to the outside would also be a good choice.

  • Steam Cleaning:
A study by Patrick J. Vojta, Sandra P. Randels, James Stout, Michael Muilenberg, Harriet A. Burge, Henry Lynn, Herman Mitchell, George T. O'Connor, Darryl C. Zeldin titled Effects of Physical Interventions on House Dust Mite Allergen Levels in Carpet, Bed, and Upholstery Dust in Low-Income, Urban Homes and published in Environmental Health Perspectives, Vol. 109, No. 8 (Aug., 2001), pp. 815-819 had this to say about the effectiveness of vacuuming versus steam cleaning to rid the carpet of dust mites:

"Both dry steam cleaning plus vacuuming and vacuuming alone resulted in a significant reduction in carpet house dust mite allergen concentration and load. Levels approached pretreatment values by 4 weeks posttreatment in the intensive vacuuming group, whereas steam cleaning plus vacuuming effected a decrease that persisted for up to 8 weeks."

Repair any loose seams or other damage that may pose a hazard for tripping.

Never run electrical cords under rugs or carpets. The constant traffic over the wire will damage the insulation and create a fire hazard.

If you are thinking about replacing your carpet, Aerias, an indoor air quality awareness organization, offers an excellent article on carpet issues from chemicals to dust mites and more. The article has dozens of links to other sources of information. You can view their article by clicking here.

Another consideration, of course, is to replace your carpets with alternative flooring. GreenHomeGuide (greenhomeguide.com) offers the following advice about flooring:
    "If you do need to replace the existing floor, wood, linoleum and cork flooring can all come from renewable or reclaimed sources, naturally emit low or no harmful compounds, can be waterproofed with nontoxic sealers, and are easily cleaned."
Fireplace and/or Wood Burning Stove:
Is there anything more relaxing than a good book in front of a warm fire on a cold winter night? Well, not much. But did you know that the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates there were 26,300 fires caused by fireplaces and/or chimneys in 2002? That number has increased every year as more and more people are turning to the warmth and beauty of a fireplace. Here are some things you can do to ensure you fireplace burns only the wood you put in it.
  • Use only seasoned wood. Seasoned wood is wood that has dried to the point that it can no longer loose moisture. As a rule of thumb, that is generally considered to be about a year for wood that is stacked outside. The more moisture content in the wood, the more creosote that will condense on the surface of the flue. Think of your warm breath on a cold mirror. If you burn unseasoned or wet wood, the result is a smoldering fire that produces a lot of smoke. The moisture in the smoke can condense on the surface of the chimney and you have creosote. A hot fire warms the flue quickly and reduces condensation from the smoke.
  • Never use charcoal or coal in a fire place. Charcoal produces a large amount of carbon monoxide (CO).
  • Make certain the damper is in good working order.
  • Use a spark arresting screen or, better yet, glass doors to prevent embers from popping out of the fireplace. Glass doors will improve the efficiency of the fireplace.
  • Never burn treated wood in a fireplace.
  • Keep the hearth clear. Combustible materials too close to a fireplace or stove can catch fire.
  • Extinguish the fire before going to bed and never close the damper if there are burning coals in the fireplace.
  • Have your fireplace and chimney inspected annually and cleaned when necessary by a qualified professional.
  • Remember that a small hot fire is much better and safer than a large smoldering one.
The University of Nebraska offers an excellent brochure on producing, harvesting and processing firewood. Want to know which wood is best? Which wood is the easiest to start a fire with? Which wood has the most BTUs? Just click here.

Electrical Outlets and Cords:


safeplug.com

Do the outlet plugs above look familiar? You can find them in just about every hardware store. Chances are good if you have a child you have some plugged into your electrical outlets to keep those curious little fingers safe. But you had better read on!!

According to State Farm Insurance (statefarm.com), A study of 37 children conducted in 1997 by the Biokinetics Research Laboratory of Temple University had the following findings:

  • 47 percent of 4-year-olds and 31 percent of 2-year-olds could remove protectors with a round, flat face and two prongs
  • 47 percent of 4-year-olds and 18 percent of 2-year-olds could remove protectors with a 3/16-inch thick oval face and a tapered side
  • 100 percent of 2- and 4-year-olds could remove protectors with a 1/16-inch thick oval face and a flat side
In addition, a national testing lab found at least one type of plug a potential choke hazard because it fit inside a test cylinder meant to measure whether an object can get caught in a child's throat.

Pretty scary, huh? And you thought you had done the right thing by plugging those little plastic caps in all over the house. There is a better way if not a slightly more expensive way to keep those little fingers safe.
    Child Tamper Resistent Outlets:
    You can purchase an electrical outlet that prevents a child from inserting something into the outlet holes. Behind the face plate is a set of shutters that can only be opened when something is inserted in both holes at the same time; plugging in a lamp for example. They generally cost from $4-$6 each, which is quite a bit more than a standard electrical outlet. Multiply that times the number of outlets in your home and you could easily spend a couple of hundred dollars to change them out. And you might not have the knowledge to change out an electrical outlet or your local codes may prevent you from doing it unless you employee an electrician.

    The picture below illustrates one type of Child Tamper Resistent Outlet. You can see the shuttters covering the hole in the outlet.



    Child Tamper Resistant Outlet Face Covers:
    Rather than change out the entire outlet, you can change just the cover plate on the outlet. A job that most do-it-yourselfers can safely do. Priced at about $3-$6 each, these electrical outlets have a face that slides or swivels over the outlet holes in the recepticle. They require little effort to change out and can be purchased at most hardware or electrical supply stores. Below are pictures of both the slide and swivel type.

    Child Proof Cover Child Proof Cover


    Look for top rated covers such as Mommy's Helper Safe-Plate Safety Outlet Cover; KidCo Decora Outlet Cover; of Safety 1st's Outlet Cover with Cord Shortener. A 2005 test of outlet covers found that Safety 1st's Swivel Outlet Cover poses an electrocution risk because the entire outlet hole is not covered. The plate uses a metal screw that can serve as a ground should a child manage to insert something like a paper clip in the uncovered hole and touch the metal screw.

    Cords:
    Make certain extension cords are in good condition and not frayed or overloaded. Always use a cord that is appropriately rated for the device that is plugged into it.

    Oh, no! Say it ain't so. As this picture from the National Fire Protection Association demonstrates, this is not what you want to have in your home. Actually, it's an accident just waiting to happen. Did you know that most home outlets are rated for 15 amps? That's about 1500 watts or a typical hair dryer. An iron is about 1000 watts and a vacuum cleaner is about 600 watts. It doesn't take too many appliances to overload an outlet.

    If an outlet or plug is hot to the touch or smells "hot" you need to have it repaired. And never unplug an appliance or extension cord by pulling on the cord. That causes stress at the point where the cord meets the plug and can cause the wires inside the insulation to break. Instead, grasp the plug head firmly to unplug it.

    When using extension cords outside, always use one that is rated for outdoor use.
Furniture Straps:
If you have small children or live in an earthquake zone (which is just about anywhere; see map) then furniture straps will prevent children from pulling a tall piece of furniture over on them and keep an earthquakes from toppling it.

The strap is attached to the back of the furniture and securely fastened to a wall stud to keep it upright.

There are straps for file cabinets, computers, televisions, metal shelves, appliances and just about anything you have in your home.

That covers your home in general. Now, let's take a room by room look at specific problems each room can pose.

Kithen:
    Appliances:
    Have you ever slid a stove or refrigerator out only to scratch your precious hardwood floor or rip your linoluem? It makes you sick doesn't it? Here's a way to make moving that appliance easier and reduce the chances that you will damage the floor underneath. Cut a square of hardboard, also called high-density fiberboard, the same width and depth as the appliance and place it underneath. Cut another square the same size to use as a spare. The next time you need to move the appliance out just place the spare piece of hardboard on the floor in front of it and slide your appliance out onto the spare piece.

    Fiberboard is generally moisture-resistant and available in nominal thicknesses ranging from 1/10 inch to 1/4 inch. 1/4 inch hardboard works just fine for this purpose.

      Icemakers:
      Another overlooked source of water problems is the water line leading to the icemaker on your refrigerator. Your best choice, of course, is 1/4 inch copper tubing as the feed line but you may not be able to use copper for a couple of reasons. If you use a reverse osmosis system (RO) then plastic or PEX tubing is required because RO treated water can corrode copper pipes. Another reason to use plastic is the use of inline water filters installed behind the refrigerator. These generally use plastic connectors that are packaged with the filter kit. Whichever type you use, copper or plastic, be certain to inspect the tubing each time you pull the refrigerator out.
      • Check the connector on the back of the refrigerator for any signs of leaking.
      • Check the tubing where it passes through the floor. This can be an area of stress caused by moving the refrigerator in and out. More so if you move the refrigerator frequently to change the water filter and clean behind it.
      • Check the length of the tube for any abrasions or crimps.
      • PEX tubing can develop pin holes that can discharge an incredible amount of water in a very short time so scrutinize it closely.
      • Be careful not to crimp or pinch the tubing when you move the refrigerator back.

    Your gas stove should have a flame with a blue-tip. Yellow-tipped flames cause more pollutant emmisions such as carbon monoxide. Your gas company should be able to adjust your stove so the burners have the proper hue.

    Never use your gas stove to heat your house!! By products from incomplete combustion fill your house along with the heat the stove provides. Carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide are two oderless, colorless, and tasteless gasses that your stove can create. Carbon monoxide interferes with your body's absorption of oxygen and nitrogen dioxide has been linked to respiratory infections and lung diseases such as emphysema. In addition, particles, released when fuels are incompletely burned, can bind with radon and benzo(a)pyrene found in your home. Both are known cancer causing agents. When particles bond with these pollutants, they can be inhaled and carried deeper into your lungs.

    If you are thinking about purchasing a new stove, get one with a pilot-less ignition to eliminate the pilot light. You'll save energy and money.

    Food borne illnesses are a constant menace. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates that 76 million people get sick, more than 300,000 are hospitalized, and 5,000 Americans die each year from foodborne illness. They consider the prevention of food borne illness and death a major public health challenge.

    Fightbac.org, the website of the Partnership for Food Safety Education (PFSE), lists the Four Core Practices. They are:

    • CLEAN:  Wash hands and surfaces often
    • SEPARATE:  Don't cross-contaminate!  
    • COOK:   Cook to proper temperature 
    • CHILL:   Refrigerate promptly

    Always remember to turn pot handles inward so young children can't grab them and you don't accidentally bump into one while you are cooking.

    Here are 10 helpful food safety tips from Iowa State University:

    1. The temperature in your refrigerator should be kept at 40° F. (4° C) or below to slow the growth of bacteria.

    2. Food should be refrigerated within two hours of cooking and it should be dated so it is used in the next day or two. Remember, when in doubt, throw it out.

    3. Did you know that kitchen dishrags and sponges can actually be dirtier than your toilet? It's true. You may not see them but millions of bacteria like salmonella, E. coli, and other mean and nasties can be living in the very thing you use to clean your kitchen counter. Don't take our word for it, read the article on CNN Interactive by clicking here. Yuck, huh? Sponges and dishclothes should be sanitized using one teaspoon bleach to one quart of water or use a commercial sanitizing agent and follow the manufactureres directions. Consider using paper towels to clean up messes involving raw foods, especially meat, fish and poulty then throw it away. A dishcloth or sponge used for clean up can harbor millions of bacteria in just a few hours.

    4. Wash your cutting board after each use and periodically clean it using a bleach solution.

    5. Always use a meat thermometer to ensure meats reach a safe temperature. Cooking all meats, including beef patties, to an internal temperature of 160° F (72° C) will usually protect against food borne illnesses. The U.S. Department of Agriculture's Food Safety and Inspection Service has an excellent fact sheet concerning meat safety on their website. You can view it by clicking here.

    6. Never eat raw or lightly cooked eggs. Be especially cautious of recipes where the final product contains raw eggs. Ice cream and eggnog are two good examples. Eggs can contain salmonella. Resist the urge to let you kids or grandkids lick the spatula on uncooked cake and cookie dough. Consider using powdered eggs in recipes in place of fresh eggs. Powdered eggs do not contain salmonella and have a long shelf life. Typically one year after opening.

    7. Clean you counter tops and sinks with a bleach solution or commerical sanitizing agent to kill bacteria. Hot soapy water is good but may not kill all strains of bacteria.

    8. If you wash dishes by hand, it's best to wash them within two hours of use to prevent bacteria from forming on them. You also want to allow them to air dry to avoid recontamination from hands and towels.

    9. Wash your hands for at least 20 seconds after handling raw meats. If you have a cut on your hand, it's best to use rubber gloves when handling meat.

    10. Defrost meat, poultry and fish products in the refrigerator, microwave oven, or cold water that is changed every 30 minutes.

Cabinet and drawer locks should be installed in homes with young children to prevent them from accessing potentially harmful products such as cleaning supplies and dishwasher detergent that might be stored beneath your kitchen sink.

The picture at right is of a combination door/drawer lock by Kidco.

Bathroom:
    We've talked about some of these but they are well worth repeating.

    Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) should be installed in the bathroom.

    Never use electrical equipment (radios, heaters, etc.) around the bathtub or sink.

    Install grab bars in your bath and shower.

    Use non-slip rugs for exiting the shower and bath.

    Install toilet locks if you have small children in the house. Like adults, they are top heavy and can easily fall into a toilet, become trapped and drown.



    If you have small children in the house, install a soft faucet cover in the bathtub to protect against burns and bumps. if your faucet has a shower diverter, make certain the type of cover you choose can accommodate the diverter.



    Install a non skid mat in the bathtub.

    Make certain you NEVER leave a small child unattended in the bathtub for any length of time. According to USA.Safekids.org, children can drown in as little as one inch of water and it only takes a second for it to happen.

    Garbage cans should have a disposable liner and be cleaned periodially using a bleach solution. Never dispose of any item such as razors, old medicines or aerosols if young children are in the house.

    Medicines should be stored in child proof containers and be inaccessible to small children.

    Consider installing scald prevention faucets in the bath, shower and sink. Many of them have an adjustable high-temperature limit stop that lets you set the maximum water temperature.You can even purchase bath faucets with a digital read out of the water temperature.

    The Phoenix Fire Department offers the following information on scald injuries:

      "In the United States, more than 112,000 people enter the emergency room at the hospital per year with scald burns. Of these, 6 percent or 6,700 have to be hospitalized. Almost 3,000 of these scald burns come from tap water in the home. The two high risk groups are children under the age of five and adults over the age of 65. It only takes one second to get a serious third degree burn from water that is 156 degrees Fahrenheit. If instant coffee granules melt in your tap water, it's set too hot and could cause serious burns to you or someone in your family."

    In the previous section on Basements, we suggested you lower your hot water heater to 120-130° F.

    If you require the use of a chair in your shower, make certain it is one designed for the shower with non-slip feet.

    Cleaning supplies such as toilet bowl cleaners or drain openers should be stored in their original containers and securely stored so children can not access them. Consider installing cabinet and/or drawer locks as described in this section above on Kitchens.

    Cleaning buckets, particularly five gallon buckets, should never be left unsupervised when a toddler is around. Like toilets, a toddler can fall into the bucket, become trapped, and drown.

Stairways:
    We told you earlier you need to have sturdy handrails installed on both sides of the stairway. You also need to practice some good common sense. Never leave anything unattended on a stairway. Someone could easily trip over it. You also want to make certain your stairway has good lighting so you can see where you are walking.

    Child safety gates at the top and the bottom of the stairs will prevent curious youngsters from exploring up the stairs and prevent them from falling down the stairs.

Bedrooms:
    Three little monkeys jumping on a bed. One fell off and bumped his head. So goes the old children's rhyme. But the fact is children just love to bounce on beds and invariably, they get hurt. Teach children that beds are not trampolines. Serious injury can result from falling off of a bed.

    Remember that blind cords pose an entanglement and choking hazard. Keep them up and out of the reach of small children.

    We also talked about fire-safety guards in Section III, Step 2. They are important safeguards in preventing falls from windows.

    Keep small objects like jewelry and cufflinks put away and out of the reach of small children.

    If you have bunk beds for your children make certain they are equipped with a safety rail to prevent them from falling out of bed and make certain the ladder is fastened to the bed frame by lag screws. Ladders equipped with hooks that slip over the bed rail can be removed by children.

    Always keep a flashlight handy in case of power failures.

    If you use an electric blanket store it by rolling it up or laying it flat. Folding the blanket may damage the heating elements inside. Always check the cord, plug and temperature control for damage.

    Never use an electric blanket on a child's bed.

    Fire:
    If you live in a multi story residence, consider investing in a fire ladder similar to the one on the right. A night time fire can block your stairway leaving your window as the only viable means of escape. While most folks believe they could safely jump to the ground from a second story window, most have never practiced it because it is just too risky.

    These ladders can be easily stored in their container and take up little space until they are needed. Each bedroom should be equipped with one and everyone should understand how their particular model operates. You can find ladders designed to be used from second and even third story windows.

    Close your bedroom door at night as a barrier to smoke and heat should a fire break out. The two pictures below are from the Auburn, Indiana fire department. The door in the picture was closed during the fire and you can see the dramatic impact it had. The picture on the left is the hallway outside the bedroom where the fire reached. The picture on the right was taken inside the bedroom. Which room would you rather have been in? The photos also illustrate the difference in temperatures between the ceiling and the floor.


    If your smoke alarm goes off during the night and your bedroom door is closed always feel the door with the back of your hand before opening it. If the door is hot DON'T OPEN IT! Use the window or your fire escape ladder. The door is hot because there is fire on the other side of it.

    In just 3 1/2 minutes, a house fire can reach 1100° F. Rooms that are NOT on fire can reach 300° F. That's hot enough to melt plastics and kill people in that room. In four minutes, the smoke from a fire can be so thick the house will be completely dark even with the lights on!!! In five minutes everything in the room will spontaneously combust. It's called the flashover point.

    If you open that hot bedroom door, the temperatures on the other side will melt any synthetic clothing to your skin. The super heated air that you breath in will scorch your lungs and the chances are pretty good you will die instantly. How can you help anyone then?

    Here's a much better idea. Develop a fire escape plan and practice it. Teach children not to hide during a fire but show them how to exit every room in the house, especially their bedroom. That's the one place they spend the most time away from you. If they have to use a fire escape ladder, make certain they know how to use it then have a safe location, away from the house, for everyone to meet. Make certain the area is free of trees and overhead power lines. Many websites and brochures use a large tree as an example of a meeting place and that can be a fatal mistake. If a fire forces you out of your home during a thunderstorm (think lightening strike) then the large tree becomes a very dangerous place. It can serve both as a lightening rod and can lose limbs during high winds. Choose an open area such as a neighbors front yard.

    Once outside, stay outside. Never go back inside even for a pet.

    It may sound intuitive but never smoke in bed and don't use candles in the bedroom. If you are a hopeless romantic and you must use candles make certain they are stable on a non-combustible surface and extinguish them before you leave the room or go to sleep.

    Effective July 1, 2007, new mattresses must meet the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission's (CPSC) flammability standard. The mandatory standard is designed to reduce the severity of mattress fires ignited by open flame sources such as candles, matches and lighters.

    CPSC estimates that, once fully effective, the new federal flammability standard will prevent as many as 270 deaths and 1,330 injuries every year.

    The mandatory mattress rule, known as 16 CFR Part 1633, is a performance standard that limits the heat release in a mattress fire.

    When shopping for a new mattress or mattress set, consumers should look for a label on the mattress stating that it meets the federal flammability requirement, and whether it is intended to be sold alone or with a specific foundation, such as a box spring.

    Although this is an added layer of protection, consumers still need to keep in mind that increased fire resistance does not mean there is no fire risk. CPSC urges consumers to follow these important fire safety tips:

    • Never smoke in bed.
    • Do not allow kids to play with candles, lighters, matches or smoking materials.
    • Do not fall asleep while a candle is burning.
    • Extinguish candles before leaving the room.
    • Have working smoke alarms on each level of the home and inside every bedroom.
    • In case of fire, call 911 from a safe location.

    The federal open flame standard does not address ignition from cigarettes because that protection is already required. A mandatory federal standard on cigarette ignition of mattresses, 16 CFR Part 1632, has been in place for more than 30 years. If a fire hydrant is located on or near your property you might want to consider keeping it clear of snow in the winter. Seconds count in a fire and the last thing you need is the fire department trying to locate a hydrant and then having to dig it out so they can attach their hoses.

    IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE:

    Please be advised that all EVAC-U8 and EVAC+ smoke hoods were recalled world wide in March of 2006. These products were purchased to provide respiratory protection in a structural smoke/fire emergency.

    Tests confirmed that use of these products in a smoke or fire emergency may expose the user to harmful carbon monoxide, which could seriously compromise their ability to escape a fire threat. Therefore, these products SHOULD NOT BE USED. The company is not aware of any incidents where a user of these products was exposed to harmful levels of carbon monoxide.

    The following SCBA emergency escape respirators were also voluntarily recalled.

    • EVACprotm for Scott Emergency Escape Respirator
    • EVACprotm for Drager Emergency Escape Respirator
    • Survivair SmokeEatertm Air-Purifying Escape Canister

    Brookdale International Systems Inc., the parent company, cooperated with the CPSC in a voluntary recall of their products. They do not anticipate having replacement products available.

    In addition, the company placed a notice to creditors on their web site that on March 9, 2007 they filed for protection under the Companies' Creditors Arrangement Act, R.S.C. 1985, c. C-36 ("CCAA Proceedings").

    If you own one of these products, it should be discarded.

    Bed bugs1:
    Almost unknown in the Western world in the last half of the twentieth century, bed bugs are making an astounding comeback in North American, Europe and Australia. Their resurgence is the result of international travel, particularly to third world countries. Even five star hotels are now dealing with an onslaught of bed bug complaints.

    Bed bug.

    Click to view enlarged image
    Bedbug.
    Click to view enlarged image

    As the pictures on the right from the Centers for Disease Control illustrate, adult bed bugs are small, wingless insects about 1/4 inch in length. From the top, they appear oval shaped but are flat when viewed from the side. Hatchlings are about the size of a poppy seed. They generally live from 4 months to about 1 year and feed exclusively on the blood of their host, in this case, us.

    Bed bugs shed their skin (called molting) so their color can range from white (just after molting) to a light tan, deep brown or orange.

    Bed bugs feed by injecting an anticoagulant to keep your blood flowing as they suck, along with an anesthetic agent to keep you from feeling them when they're at work. As a result, victims normally don't know they have been attacked during the night until they wake up the next morning with red marks on their body. Bed bug-bite signs and symptoms will usually only affect the surface of the skin, revealing themselves as small itchy red bumps known as papules or wheals. You might find the lesions in a linear or clustered fashion, indicative of repeated feedings by a single bed bug. The skin lesion produced by the bite of a bed bug resembles those caused by many other kinds of blood feeding insects, such as mosquitoes and fleas so you may not suspect bed bugs as having been the cause.

    Since bed bugs are generally nocturnal, coming out at night to feed, you will rarely see them during the day. However, they will venture out in the day if they are hungry. They tend to hide in cracks and crevices in the room and inside furniture. Favored hiding sites include the bed frame, mattress and box spring. Bed bugs are generally brought into the home as the result of visiting an infected location. They will stow away in clothing and luggage and make themselves at home once you unpack. They can also be brought in by purchasing used bedding, a method often seen in college dormitories when incoming students purchase used lofts or bunk beds. They can easily migrate from one apartment to another through cracks and crevices around pipes and wiring. In rare cases, nesting bats or birds can infect a home with a cousin to bed bugs, bat bugs and bird bugs.

    The good news (if there is any) is that bed bugs do not carry or transmit any known disease. Their saliva can be an irritant and cause an allergic reaction particularly if repeated exposure has occurred.

    Here are some tips from the Harvard School of Public Health on how you can detect bed bugs:

      "Bed bugs infest only a small proportion of residences, but they should be suspected if residents complain of bites that occurred while sleeping. The bedroom and other sleeping areas should be carefully examined for bed bugs and signs of bed bug activity. Folds and creases in the bed linens, and seams and tufts of mattresses and box springs, in particular, may harbor bed bugs or their eggs. They may also be found within pleats of curtains, beneath loose areas of wallpaper near the bed, in corners of desks and dressers, within spaces of wicker furniture, behind cove molding, and in laundry or other items on the floor or around the room. Sometimes, characteristic dark brown or reddish fecal spots of bed bugs are apparent on the bed linens, mattress or walls near the bed. A peculiar coriander-like odor may be detected in some heavily infested residences. Adhesive-based traps used for sampling insects or rodents are not particularly effective for trapping bed bugs."

    Search for bedbugs in the frame of the bed, behind dresser drawers and behind headboards. Cast off skins and blood spots offer clues to bed bug infestation but only confirm a prior problem. Look for live crawling bugs to confirm they are still active. Scrub all surfaces with a stiff brush to remove eggs and use a powerful vacuum to remove bed bugs from cracks and crevices. Remove dresser drawers and inspect the back and underside of all furniture for additional hiding places.

    Special matress bags can be used to encase the matress and box springs. Any insects trapped inside the bags will eventually die.

    If you suspect or know that you have stayed in accommodations infected with bed bugs immediately wash all clothing as soon as you return from your trip. Carefully check your luggage for signs of live insects, scrub your luggage with a stiff brush to remove any eggs and vacuum it inside and out. Placing your luggage in a closed vehicle in the hot summer sun for several hours may also help destroy any insects.

    The Harvard Schoool of Public Health has a great trouble tree for managing bed bug infestations along with suggestions on how to eradicate them. You can view it at http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/bedbugs/management.html or by clicking here.

    You may wish to contact a pest control company to solve the problem. If you do, choose one that is knowledgable and experienced in dealing with bed bugs. We recommend acquiring written estimates from three companies, ask each company for references, and ask at least a few of their customers about their experiences before you agree to any contract. You should also check with the Better Business Bureau and a consumer advocate group such as Angie's List before signing a contract.

    Well, that covers the inside of your home. You may have rooms not listed such as a laundry room, game room, sewing room or entertainment room but you should be able to adapt the information listed above to improve the safety in each of those rooms.

    In the next section, we will look at your garage and your attic. If you are ready, just click here.

    1 Pollack, Richard Ph.D., Alpert, Gary Ph.D., Bed Bugs - Cimex lectularius (Cimicidae) - Biology and Management. Harvard School of Public Health. Available at: http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/bedbugs/index.html. Accessed May, 07, 2007.



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